Growth of Oliver Corporation Since 1848
On April 1, 1929, four companies, Oliver Chilled Plow Company (1855), Hart-Part Tractor Company (1897), Nichols and Shepard Threshing Machine Company (1848) and Amercian Seeding Company (1848) merged to form Oliver Farm Equipment Company, now known as Oliver Corporation which has its main offices in Chicago, Illinois.
1. OLIVER CHILLED PLOW COMPANY. Having invented the chilled plow in 1855, James Oliver, a Scottish immigrant, incorporated his first company in 1868 at South Bend, Indiana, which was know as The South Bend Iron Works. Today, as a part of Oliver Corporation, this plant produces plows, tillage tools, cultivators, and planting equipment. Oliver's son, Joseph D. Oliver, was chairman of the board of directors of the newly formed Oliver Farm Equipment Company.
2. HART-PARR TRACTOR COMPANY. Charles W. Hart and Charles H. Parr, two young engineering students at the University of Wisconsin, founded Hart and Parr Company in 1897 to build stationary engines. During the years 1900 and 1901, Hart and Parr moved to Charles City, Iowa, and established the Hart-Parr Tractor Company. After many years of unsuccessful attempts by others to design and produce a practical internal combustion engine for tractors, Hart and Parr produced the world's first successful production farm tractor.
L.B. Sperry, Manager of Engineering, 1944, Farm Tractor Division, International Harvester Company, states in Farm Power and the Post-War Tractor. In 1901, Hart-Parr, using a heavy type, oil-cooled, twin-cylinder engine, build their first tractor, and the report is that it was sold in 1902 to a farmer in Iowa where it worked for at least 17 years. In 1903, Hart-Parr build 15 tractors, and the success with these tractors was very good. hart-Parr Company deserves recognition as founder of gasoline tractor activity.
In Development of the Agricultural Tractor in the United States, R.B. Gray, formerly Head, Farm Machinery Section, United States department of Agriculture, observed: These men hart and Parr has started experimental work on gasoline engines in 1895, and by 1905 had established the first business in the United States devoted exclusively to the manufacture of tractors. In the same article, Gray further stated: They "Hart and Parr" designed their tractor for drawbar work rather than for belt work as evidence by the ruggedness of its transmission with well withstood the heavy strains imposed when plowing.
The manufacturing plant founded by Hart and Parr has been in continuous operation since 1901: and today, this same plant, now owned by Oliver Corporation, manufactures Oliver tractors, and since 1962 also manufactures tractors for Cockshutt Farm equipment Company of Canada, Limited.
3. NICHOLAS AND SHEPPARD THRESHING MACHINE COMPANY. John Nicholas established a blacksmith's shop at Battle Creek, Michigan in 1848, and manufactured small farm implements. In the early 1850's he build his first thresher and it was so successful that David Shepard joined him, as a partner, to expand the business. In 1866, they reorganized and formed the Nichols and Shepard Company - the first corporation under the laws of Michigan - which introduced the famous Red River Special Thresher in 1902.
Nichol's son, Edwin C. Nichols, gained international recognition for the company, and his grandson, John T. Nichols, headed the organization at the time of its merger with Oliver in 1929. In 1962, when Oliver acquired Cockshutt Farm Equipment Company of Canada, Ltd., the Battle Creek factory was closed and consolidated with the Cockshutt plant, which now manufactures combines, swathers, and grain harvesting equipment for both Oliver and Cockshutt.
4. AMERICAN SEEDING MACHINE COMPANY. In 1903; Superior Drill Company, Springfield, Ohio; Hoosier Drill Company; Bickford and Huffman Company; Empire Drill company; Brennan and Company; and later, A.C. Evans company merged into one company, the American seeding Machine Company. At the time of this merge, Bickford and Huffman had already enjoyed excellent acceptance of its drills since 1848. The Superior Drill Company was founded by Thomas, Ludlow, and Rodgers about 1840.
The Springfield, Ohio plant was closed in 1959 and its facilities combined with those of Oliver plants in South Bend, Indiana and Shelbyville, Illinois to utilize manufacturing facilities to a greater advantage.
Between 1929 and 1960, Oliver Corporation acquired several successful companies in a expansion program. Among these were: The McKenzie Manufacturing Company, manufacturers of potato planting and harvesting tools, which was consolidated with Oliver's South Bend, Indiana plant in 1930; The Ann Arbor machine Company (1882) moved to Shelbyville, Illinois in 1920 and became part of Oliver in 1943. Today, this plant manufacturers balers, side rakes, mowers, loaders, spreaders, corn harvesters, and seeding equipment; The Cleveland Crawler Tractor Company (Cletrac) of Cleveland, Ohio became a part of Oliver in 1944, and when White Motor purchased this plant in 1962, the facilities were relocated to Charles City, Iowa; The A.B. Farquhar company of York, Pennsylvania which manufactured sprayers and the Be-Ge Manufacturing Company of Gilroy, California, manufacturers of cylinders, levelers, and scrapers, were purchased by Oliver in 1952, but these two plants were not included in the acquisition of Oliver by White Motor in 1960.
In addition to acquiring several successful companies during the expansion program between 1929 and 1960, Oliver also build a second plant at South Bend, Indiana in the 1920's for plow manufacturing. From 1941 until 1943 this plant manufactured guns and shells for the government. From 1943-1945, it was used as a government depot and warehouse. In 1946 this plant produced gears etc. for other Oliver plants. Beginning in 1947 South Bend No. 2 produced Oliver's larger horsepower tractors and in 1957 a utility line was added. In 1958 South Bend No. 2 was consolidated with other Oliver plants at Charles City and Shelbyville.
On November 1, 1960 White Motor Corporation, Cleveland, Ohio, the world's leading builder of heavy-duty trucks, acquired Oliver Corporation as a wholly-owned subsidiary. Oliver's manufacturing plants were then consolidated into three plants which are now located at Charles City, Iowa (tractor); South Bend, Indiana (plows and tillage tools), and Shelbyville, Illinois (pickers, headers, balers, loaders, rakes, spreaders, mowers); a move which greatly increased productivity and efficiency.
A list of Oliver "FIRSTS" in the farm tractor industry include:
COCKSHUTT FARM EQUIPMENT SINCE 1839
In February of 1962. White Motor also purchased Cockshutt Farm Equipment Company of Canada, Ltd, Brantford, Ontario, as a subsidiary of Oliver Corp.
This company was a Canadian pioneer in the early development of farm machinery and equipment. In 1839, the original company began operations in a two-story, yellow brick structure which stood only a few hundred yards from today's modern new plants; however, the original plant disappeared long ago in the march of the time and progress.
During the 127 years following its founding, the Cockshutt Company built an outstanding reputation for engineering design and manufacturing quality and established a nationwide network of branches and dealerships.
In 1962, the Cockshutt plant was completely reorganized to increase efficiency and productivity. Only the most up-to-date facilities were retained and additional space was acquired for future development. Since 1962, the assembly and finishing areas of the combine plant were expanded. This million dollar improvement included a modern powerized conveyor line and the very latest design multiple stage "Flo-Coat" painting system. The Cockshutt Plant now utilized almost 530,000 square feet of production space including space allotted to White Motor Corporation truck division.
As a result of this purchased, the Brantford, Ontario plant now builds Oliver and Cockshutt combines and other harvesting equipment while the Charles City, Iowa plant builds farm and industrial tractors for both companies. Again, greater productivity and efficiency were gained by this "perfect marriage" of production facilities of these two companies.
On April 1, 1929, four companies, Oliver Chilled Plow Company (1855), Hart-Part Tractor Company (1897), Nichols and Shepard Threshing Machine Company (1848) and Amercian Seeding Company (1848) merged to form Oliver Farm Equipment Company, now known as Oliver Corporation which has its main offices in Chicago, Illinois.
1. OLIVER CHILLED PLOW COMPANY. Having invented the chilled plow in 1855, James Oliver, a Scottish immigrant, incorporated his first company in 1868 at South Bend, Indiana, which was know as The South Bend Iron Works. Today, as a part of Oliver Corporation, this plant produces plows, tillage tools, cultivators, and planting equipment. Oliver's son, Joseph D. Oliver, was chairman of the board of directors of the newly formed Oliver Farm Equipment Company.
2. HART-PARR TRACTOR COMPANY. Charles W. Hart and Charles H. Parr, two young engineering students at the University of Wisconsin, founded Hart and Parr Company in 1897 to build stationary engines. During the years 1900 and 1901, Hart and Parr moved to Charles City, Iowa, and established the Hart-Parr Tractor Company. After many years of unsuccessful attempts by others to design and produce a practical internal combustion engine for tractors, Hart and Parr produced the world's first successful production farm tractor.
L.B. Sperry, Manager of Engineering, 1944, Farm Tractor Division, International Harvester Company, states in Farm Power and the Post-War Tractor. In 1901, Hart-Parr, using a heavy type, oil-cooled, twin-cylinder engine, build their first tractor, and the report is that it was sold in 1902 to a farmer in Iowa where it worked for at least 17 years. In 1903, Hart-Parr build 15 tractors, and the success with these tractors was very good. hart-Parr Company deserves recognition as founder of gasoline tractor activity.
In Development of the Agricultural Tractor in the United States, R.B. Gray, formerly Head, Farm Machinery Section, United States department of Agriculture, observed: These men hart and Parr has started experimental work on gasoline engines in 1895, and by 1905 had established the first business in the United States devoted exclusively to the manufacture of tractors. In the same article, Gray further stated: They "Hart and Parr" designed their tractor for drawbar work rather than for belt work as evidence by the ruggedness of its transmission with well withstood the heavy strains imposed when plowing.
The manufacturing plant founded by Hart and Parr has been in continuous operation since 1901: and today, this same plant, now owned by Oliver Corporation, manufactures Oliver tractors, and since 1962 also manufactures tractors for Cockshutt Farm equipment Company of Canada, Limited.
3. NICHOLAS AND SHEPPARD THRESHING MACHINE COMPANY. John Nicholas established a blacksmith's shop at Battle Creek, Michigan in 1848, and manufactured small farm implements. In the early 1850's he build his first thresher and it was so successful that David Shepard joined him, as a partner, to expand the business. In 1866, they reorganized and formed the Nichols and Shepard Company - the first corporation under the laws of Michigan - which introduced the famous Red River Special Thresher in 1902.
Nichol's son, Edwin C. Nichols, gained international recognition for the company, and his grandson, John T. Nichols, headed the organization at the time of its merger with Oliver in 1929. In 1962, when Oliver acquired Cockshutt Farm Equipment Company of Canada, Ltd., the Battle Creek factory was closed and consolidated with the Cockshutt plant, which now manufactures combines, swathers, and grain harvesting equipment for both Oliver and Cockshutt.
4. AMERICAN SEEDING MACHINE COMPANY. In 1903; Superior Drill Company, Springfield, Ohio; Hoosier Drill Company; Bickford and Huffman Company; Empire Drill company; Brennan and Company; and later, A.C. Evans company merged into one company, the American seeding Machine Company. At the time of this merge, Bickford and Huffman had already enjoyed excellent acceptance of its drills since 1848. The Superior Drill Company was founded by Thomas, Ludlow, and Rodgers about 1840.
The Springfield, Ohio plant was closed in 1959 and its facilities combined with those of Oliver plants in South Bend, Indiana and Shelbyville, Illinois to utilize manufacturing facilities to a greater advantage.
Between 1929 and 1960, Oliver Corporation acquired several successful companies in a expansion program. Among these were: The McKenzie Manufacturing Company, manufacturers of potato planting and harvesting tools, which was consolidated with Oliver's South Bend, Indiana plant in 1930; The Ann Arbor machine Company (1882) moved to Shelbyville, Illinois in 1920 and became part of Oliver in 1943. Today, this plant manufacturers balers, side rakes, mowers, loaders, spreaders, corn harvesters, and seeding equipment; The Cleveland Crawler Tractor Company (Cletrac) of Cleveland, Ohio became a part of Oliver in 1944, and when White Motor purchased this plant in 1962, the facilities were relocated to Charles City, Iowa; The A.B. Farquhar company of York, Pennsylvania which manufactured sprayers and the Be-Ge Manufacturing Company of Gilroy, California, manufacturers of cylinders, levelers, and scrapers, were purchased by Oliver in 1952, but these two plants were not included in the acquisition of Oliver by White Motor in 1960.
In addition to acquiring several successful companies during the expansion program between 1929 and 1960, Oliver also build a second plant at South Bend, Indiana in the 1920's for plow manufacturing. From 1941 until 1943 this plant manufactured guns and shells for the government. From 1943-1945, it was used as a government depot and warehouse. In 1946 this plant produced gears etc. for other Oliver plants. Beginning in 1947 South Bend No. 2 produced Oliver's larger horsepower tractors and in 1957 a utility line was added. In 1958 South Bend No. 2 was consolidated with other Oliver plants at Charles City and Shelbyville.
On November 1, 1960 White Motor Corporation, Cleveland, Ohio, the world's leading builder of heavy-duty trucks, acquired Oliver Corporation as a wholly-owned subsidiary. Oliver's manufacturing plants were then consolidated into three plants which are now located at Charles City, Iowa (tractor); South Bend, Indiana (plows and tillage tools), and Shelbyville, Illinois (pickers, headers, balers, loaders, rakes, spreaders, mowers); a move which greatly increased productivity and efficiency.
A list of Oliver "FIRSTS" in the farm tractor industry include:
- First Tractor Plant
- First Successful Production Tractor
- First Tractor Advertisement
- First Oil-Cooled Engine
- First Valve-In head Engine
- First Kerosene Burning Engine
- First Tricycle Row Crop
- First Multi-Speed Transmission
- First Successful Diesel Tractor Engine
- First Electric Hydraulic System
- First Tractor Double-Disc Brakes - Production
- First "Live" Independent PTO
- First Tilt-Telescope Steering
- First 4-Wheel Drive w/Terra-Tires
- First Wheel Guard Fuel Tanks
- First With CERTIFIED Horsepower
COCKSHUTT FARM EQUIPMENT SINCE 1839
In February of 1962. White Motor also purchased Cockshutt Farm Equipment Company of Canada, Ltd, Brantford, Ontario, as a subsidiary of Oliver Corp.
This company was a Canadian pioneer in the early development of farm machinery and equipment. In 1839, the original company began operations in a two-story, yellow brick structure which stood only a few hundred yards from today's modern new plants; however, the original plant disappeared long ago in the march of the time and progress.
During the 127 years following its founding, the Cockshutt Company built an outstanding reputation for engineering design and manufacturing quality and established a nationwide network of branches and dealerships.
In 1962, the Cockshutt plant was completely reorganized to increase efficiency and productivity. Only the most up-to-date facilities were retained and additional space was acquired for future development. Since 1962, the assembly and finishing areas of the combine plant were expanded. This million dollar improvement included a modern powerized conveyor line and the very latest design multiple stage "Flo-Coat" painting system. The Cockshutt Plant now utilized almost 530,000 square feet of production space including space allotted to White Motor Corporation truck division.
As a result of this purchased, the Brantford, Ontario plant now builds Oliver and Cockshutt combines and other harvesting equipment while the Charles City, Iowa plant builds farm and industrial tractors for both companies. Again, greater productivity and efficiency were gained by this "perfect marriage" of production facilities of these two companies.
TEN COMMON WRECKS WITH DRIVING HORSES
THEIR CAUSES AND PREVENTION
Unfortunately, trading wreck stories seems to be a common pastime of some teamsters. I'm sure those of you fortunate enough to have never experienced a wreck with horses have certainly heard stories of another teamster's misfortune.
In those few seconds when our horses are panicking and out of control, they can injure or even kill themselves or us. Even if no one is hurt, those moments of panic can destroy the horse's trust and make him unsafe or psychologically unable to work any more.
One of the things I've learned over time is that the truly great teamsters rarely - if ever - have upset horses, close calls, mishaps or wrecks, while the less meticulous horsemen often do. Even though it may take a few minutes longer, the master teamster constantly follows a series of seemingly minute, endlessly detailed, but always wise safety tips.
Here are 10 of them:
Safety Tip# 1: Always fasten breast strap snaps facing inward towards the collar, instead of facing out away from the collar.
If the breast strap snaps are hooked facing outward (away) from the collar, it's possible for a horse - or - his team mate - to accidently hook a bit, bridle part, halter ring or hame ring into the snap. The result of a claustrophobic animal with its head trapped in an awkward, unnatural and uncomfortable downward position. When this happen, there is a great risk of panic and a wreck resulting in physical and /or psychological damage to horses, humans or both.
I once witnessed a wreck when a very well-broke, dependable horse hooked his bit ring onto the breast strap snap, began fighting for his freedom, and lunged backwards dragging his team mate with him. The horse injured his mouth with the bit, and backed the wagon into a pick up truck. The wreck was not the horse's fault, and could have easily been prevented.
Unfortunately, it's common for harness to be set up so that when the team is hitched the breast strap snaps face outward. In fact, new harness often comes from the maker that way. It's a simple matter to remove the breast straps, turn the snaps over and reassemble the straps so they snap inward. Once the breast straps are set up properly, snapping then inward is actually easier and quicker then hooking them facing out and a whole lot safer for you and your horse.
Safety Tip# 2: Always snap combination snaps and pole strap and / or breast strap snaps so they face in toward the tongue.
This tip is similar to the first. Again, when these snaps are attached (to the neck yoke rings) facing outward, we have potential for the horses to catch their bits in the snaps when they rub their heads. Having the head trapped easily triggering claustrophobia and panic in horses, and often results in a disastrous wreck.
The paired combination snaps on a team harness usually come pointing in the same direction, so that on one horse the snap is safely facing inward and on the other horse the snap is unsafely pointed outward. Some of these snaps are riveted on; others are bolted on. If they are bolted on, you can simply take the bolt out and turn the snap around. If they are riveted, you don't have that option without cutting the rivet and replacing it with a bolt. If you use combination snaps, be sure they are modified as necessary so they both face inward toward the tongue.
Some breast straps attach to the neck yoke with their own snap, and are used with a pole strap that has its own snap as well. When using such setups, be certain that you snap both the breast strap snap and the pole strap snap facing inward on both ends of the neck yoke.
Although it's not impossible for a horse to get a bit ring caught when the breast and pole strap snaps are pointed inward, it's a lot more difficult because there's very little room on the inside. But on the outside, the bit and other equipment can very easily come into contact with the snaps.
Another option which offers no chance for a snap to catch a bit ring is a breast strap and pole strap design that attaches to the neck yoke rings without any snaps.
Safety Tip# 3: Attach all lines to the bit with buckles instead of snaps.
Attaching the lines to the bit with snaps was an accepted method in the old days, and unfortunately still is today.
However, using snaps to hook the lines to the bits is just not safe at all. Snaps are notorious for breaking - usually when you need then the most. In addition, an itchy or impatient horse can unhook them when he bumps or rubs his head on the neck yoke. He can also unhook or break line snaps when rubbing on his partner.
No matter what the scenario, when a snap is rubbed off or fails, you have completely lost control of your horse. Long ago, before I knew better, I had a couple of close calls and then a fairly serious wreck caused by line snaps breaking or coming off. And since then, I've heard countless stories of near misses and serious wrecks due to line snap failures.
As with other snaps, if line snaps are facing outward, a horse can snag them and therefore his bit into a multitude of other harness parts - his or her partners. This can have potentially devastating consequences as the horse becomes trapped and panics. A vision of two horses that once got their bits snapped together comes to mind.
There are a lot of different types of snaps on the market. In my opinion, all snaps - except for one type - are dangerous on driving lines. The only snap I consider is a twisted line snap. It's also called a twisted wire snap. I've never heard of them coming off and I've never had one come off myself. The downside is that they can be tricky to get on and off until you perfect the technique.
The safe way to attach lines is to buckle them on to the bit or use only the twisted line snaps. If you have other snaps on your lines, you don't need new lines; just have the ends converted to buckle type by a harness maker.
Or - as an alternative to taking or sending your lines to a harness shop - I've come up with an adapter that consists of a buckle-on line end that will easily connect to the ends of lines designed for snaps. Simply remove the snaps and use the Conway buckles on the lines to attach the adapters.
Between now and the time you get rid of any snaps on your lines, please tape the snaps with electrical tape - each and every time you drive - so they stay on and you and your horse stay safe.
Safety Tip# 4: Use equipment that prevents cross-check buckles from going through the hame or spreader rings.
If horses get too far apart, one too far ahead of the other or if one stumbles or roots with his nose, a cross check can be pulled so far forward that the cross check buckle can be pulled into - or through - the spreader or hame ring.
Sometimes you can pull it back through the ring, but generally you can't. When this happens, you completely lose control with that line. It's just the same as losing a line off the bit, and you're at risk for having the same kinds of wreck: a runaway and the potential for serious damage.
In the past, I taught my students to watch the cross check buckles closely and not let them get close to a spreader or hame ring, especially when stopped and before starting the team. But not I insist on the use of one of three simple, inexpensive pieces of equipment that prevent the buckles being pulled into or through the rings:
The ring needs to be too large to go through the spreader or hame ring, but small enough that the cross check buckle cannot be pulled thought it. Be sure the ring ends up between the cross check buckle and the spreader or hame ring. It may be necessary to use two different sized rings on the cross check line if the one that is large enough to not go through the spreader and hame rings is too large to stop the cross check buckle from going through it. Put the smaller one behind the larger one, not in front of it.
Safety Tip# 5: Always secure slip-on neck yoke to the tongue with a safety chain.
Very few teamsters secure slip-on neck yokes to the tongue, but neck yokes unexpectedly slipping off the tongue have caused countless injuries and wrecks - many of them serious and some fatal.
if it's not attached to the tongue with a safety chain, a neck yoke can slip off and drop to the ground if a horse steps ahead during the hitching process. The neck yoke can also slip off if the traces are hooked too long, if a trace chain accidently comes unhooked from a single tree, or from other equipment maladjustments or failures.
Whatever the cause, the result can be disastrous. When a neck yoke accidently slips off the tongue, the tongue drops to the ground, and we have completely lot the ability to steer, slow down or stop the vehicle. If the horses slow or stop, the vehicle can slam into the horses from behind, injuring them and /or fanning the fire of their terror.
If the horses are moving, the tongue can beat up or even break the horses' legs as it flails side to side. The team can drag the vehicle, but steering is lost so it is likely to flip or roll. Or - the tongue can jam in the ground and catapult the vehicle, sometimes onto the horses' backs, as happened to an old-timer I knew.
Making sure the neck yoke is chained or otherwise secured to the tongue every time you hitch a team is a quick and easy way to completely prevent such catastrophic wrecks.
As handy as they are, baling twine and wire are poor choices for securing neck yokes. Although fastening a neck yoke with anything is better then not attaching it at all, baling twine or wire - even heavy wire - is an emergency-only option for me because the wire or twine will wear and break before too long.
Years ago, I used to secure my neck yokes with a hame strap. A hame strap is certainly preferable to bailing twine or wire in my opinion, and is very quick and easy to use. However, even a good leather or synthetic hame strap does not have the strength and durability of chain.
Today, I always use a chain fastened with a quick link. It has necessary strength and durability, does not come undone or fail and doesn't wear. It's quick and easy to get on and off, is inexpensive and doesn't look too tacky. I keep a safety chain and quick link fastened to every neck yoke that I use. That way when I use a neck yoke out to out it on a piece of equipment, I always have a safety chain and don't have to guess whether there's one on the tongue or not.
The quick link should be heavier then the chain, and to be completely secure. always tighten it with a wrench or pliers.
A safer alternative to slip-on neck yokes is the bolt-on design. They bolt permanently to the end of the tongue with interlocking eye bolts and therefore cannot accidentally come off.
Safety Tip# 6: Always secure doubletree pins.
When doubletree pins are not secured, they can work themselves up and fall out. If this happens, the doubletree detaches from the tongue and it can fly forward and hit the team in the rear legs. This can quickly turn into a real wreck.
It's rather amazing that unsecured doubletree pins don't come out more often than they do, but I've seen it happen several times with resulting wrecks. Here again, it's a completely preventable problem.
To prevent the doubletree pins from slipping out, I prefer to use a hard bolt for the double tree pin. I then place a washer and nut on the end of the bolt and insert a cotter pin thru a hole in the bolt just below the nut. This gives me a double safety system - nut and cotter pin. The pin is important because without it, the nuts are likely to come off.
Regardless of the type of doubletree pin, at the very least secure it with a cotter pin and a washer above the pin. Bend the cotter pin ends around the double tree pin with pliers. Be sure to use what I call an old-style cotter pin, which has ends that you bend instead of a modern-type spring clip - also called a hairpin or spring hitch pin - which will snag on things and fall out.
Safety Tip# 7: Use a "butt rope" when you ground drive a team
An all-too-common wreck can happen when a team "turns inside out" while you are ground driving. Without the traces hooked to single trees there are no outside boundaries to encourage the horses not to spread their rear ends apart - especially when backing up.
Horses in a team tend to swing their rear ends apart when backing up, and if the rear ends get far enough apart, the lines don't work properly, or - at some point - not at all. Then, as the back ends get farther and farther apart the horses can face one another and pull back, or "turn inside out" and become tangled in the lines. They commonly tear up each others' mouth with the bits, break harness and run off in a panic.
To avoid such mishaps and wrecks, it is critical that we keep our horses' rear ends appropriately close together at all times, and particularly when backing up. While there are a number of ways this can be accomplished, I prefer to use what I call a "butt rope".
A butt rope is simply a rope of proper length with a strong, safe, snap tied on each end. One snap is hooked into the outside, bottom hame ring of the first horse with the snap facing inward just like the other snaps. The rope is then threaded through the rear hip strap on the outside of the same horse. Pass the rope under this first horse's tail, over to the other horse and under his tail.
Working up the outside of the second horse, pass the rope inside the rear strap and snap into the outside, bottom hame ring wit the snap facing inward. Proper adjustment of the butt rope length lets the horses spread their rear ends only about six inches to a foot more when they are hitched and working parallel.
Once the proper rope length is established, it need not be changed unless used on horses of a significantly different size. For draft horses I use 20 feet of 3/8 - or 1/2 - inch soft, braided, poly rope with a total, finished snap-to-snap length of about 16-1/2 to 17 feet. Smaller horses require a proportionately shorter working length.
Although it is important to prevent the horses from swinging their rear ends out, it is also important that they not be held too close together. They need room to maneuver and work without crowding each other.
While some teamsters use methods such as tying the tails together or running the lines around on the outside of the horse's rear ends, I like the butt rope method best because it sets a clear, understandable boundary around the horse instead of putting pressure on the horse in a way that might be confusing to him. In addition, it's not pulling on parts of the harness that aren't designed to take a great deal of force.
Safety Tip# 8: Don't let go of the lines and trust horses to stand
A lot of people trust their horses to stand while they put down the lines and do such things as open a gate, grab a wrench from the barn or visit with a friend.
It often happens that horses so well learning to stand, and people will start trusting them more and more. But regardless of how obedient the horse is or how many years he has been trustworthy about standing unattended, there's always a chance that when least expected, he will leave the scene. If a saddle horse runs away with a saddle on his back, chances are he's not going to be hurt, but if a driving horse runs away with a vehicle or implement hooked behind him, the chances of injury and psychological damage are huge.
My first choice is to tie my horse or have someone else hold them if I have to let go of the lines. But I am often working with them alone so must repeatedly discipline myself to resist the urge to put the lines down and trust them to stand.
I sometimes use lead lines from a four-up on a team so when I get down to open a gate I can take the lines with me, go up and open the gate, step back behind the team, and drive them through the vehicle or implement and close the gate without letting go of them.
Or , I'll tie the horses to a tree or post, open the gate, untie the horses and drive through the gate, and tie them on the other side to go back and shut the gate.
To some, these may seem like time-consuming routines. However, for me, working horses isn't about time. I believe we shouldn't sacrifice the physical or mental well-being of our horses to save time.
Do I ever break this rule? Occasionally I do. I have older horses that I've been driving for over 20 years. But even with them, I trust them to stand alone only if by reading the horses I feel that at that moment on that day I can trust them. When I leave them, I don't go very far. I watch them like a hawk and if they even lean their body weight, I use "whoa" to remind them to stand. I will return to them immediately if I think it prudent or necessary.
No matter how good and trustworthy our horses are, we are always taking the risk of a wreck if we let go of the lines and trust them to stand.
Safety Tip# 9: Learn not to jerk the lines if a horse spooks.
Human error causes a lot of wrecks. One common errors is to jerk the lines to gain control or punish when a horse spooks, flinches or bolts.
When a horse spooks it often wouldn't be more then that, except for our natural reaction to jerk on the lines. When that happens, we hurt the horse's mouth. He jumps because he perceives he's in danger of being hurt or killed, and when we jerk on the lines the pain confirms his fear. After this happens two or three times, we have effectively taught the horse to try harder and faster to get away when something frightens him.
It's a real challenge, but we need to train our hands to move forward with the lines instead of jerking back on them when a horse startles, jumps or bolts.
Learning to develop this skill takes self discipline and mind-body control. It takes hours and hours of driving and practice while paying attention to give and take on the horse's mouth. Over time, your hands become pressure sensors as you learn to give of resist when a horse bolts. After you give, you need to gently regain contact and control of the horse without hurting him with the bit.
You can practice this skill with a partner. The idea is for one person to drive the other like a horse. The horse holds one end of a line in each hand against the sides of their hips. The teamster is behind the horse with a line in each hand and "drives the horse". The horse's job is to drive off nicely, but periodically spook and jerk the lines without warning. Practice until your automatic reaction is to give with the lines instead of resisting or jerking back. The trickier your partner is, the better they'll teach you to refrain from hurting your horse's mouth.
Safety Tip# 10: Always sit on or otherwise secure the lines when you're driving
It's easier to drop a line then you might think. A horse can stumble or root with his nose pretty hard, and it's not uncommon for us to simply fumble a line and drop it. If you don't have the lines secured as a backup, one or both can be lost and you can easily lose control.
My preferred safety net is to sit on the lines. I run the lines between my legs and bring them out behind me instead of tucking them under just one side of my rear end. That way the lines are less likely to pull out if I am bounced up off the seat a bit.
When you're standing up driving, for example on a wagon or a bob sled, you can tie the ends of the lines to the front rack on the wagon or sled. If there is a Jake staff, you can use half hitches to secure the line on it.
With these backup plans, if the lines are jerked out of your hands, its quick and easy to scoop them up again, and the lines cannot drop to the ground leaving you helpless to recover them.
I was explaining about sitting on the lines in a workhorse workshop at my ranch a few years ago, and I noticed that one student became distressed. When I was done talking he said, "Oh my God. If Mike had known that, he would be alive today." He had explained that his friend, Mike, had been driving mules for many years. Less the a year before, Mike was driving a pair of his mules on a buckboard when something caused him to lose one of the lines. With one line dragging on the ground he soon lost control and a full blown run away ensued.
Ultimately, the buckboard flipped over, dragging Mike down the gravel road beneath it. Mike explained that it was his fault - not the mule's fault - before he died in the hospital a few days later. Need I say more?
There are always risks when driving horses. But these 10 safety tips are proven ways of to prevent some of the more common wrecks and keep you and your horses safe.
Be kind, be safe, and enjoy those horses.
THEIR CAUSES AND PREVENTION
Unfortunately, trading wreck stories seems to be a common pastime of some teamsters. I'm sure those of you fortunate enough to have never experienced a wreck with horses have certainly heard stories of another teamster's misfortune.
In those few seconds when our horses are panicking and out of control, they can injure or even kill themselves or us. Even if no one is hurt, those moments of panic can destroy the horse's trust and make him unsafe or psychologically unable to work any more.
One of the things I've learned over time is that the truly great teamsters rarely - if ever - have upset horses, close calls, mishaps or wrecks, while the less meticulous horsemen often do. Even though it may take a few minutes longer, the master teamster constantly follows a series of seemingly minute, endlessly detailed, but always wise safety tips.
Here are 10 of them:
Safety Tip# 1: Always fasten breast strap snaps facing inward towards the collar, instead of facing out away from the collar.
If the breast strap snaps are hooked facing outward (away) from the collar, it's possible for a horse - or - his team mate - to accidently hook a bit, bridle part, halter ring or hame ring into the snap. The result of a claustrophobic animal with its head trapped in an awkward, unnatural and uncomfortable downward position. When this happen, there is a great risk of panic and a wreck resulting in physical and /or psychological damage to horses, humans or both.
I once witnessed a wreck when a very well-broke, dependable horse hooked his bit ring onto the breast strap snap, began fighting for his freedom, and lunged backwards dragging his team mate with him. The horse injured his mouth with the bit, and backed the wagon into a pick up truck. The wreck was not the horse's fault, and could have easily been prevented.
Unfortunately, it's common for harness to be set up so that when the team is hitched the breast strap snaps face outward. In fact, new harness often comes from the maker that way. It's a simple matter to remove the breast straps, turn the snaps over and reassemble the straps so they snap inward. Once the breast straps are set up properly, snapping then inward is actually easier and quicker then hooking them facing out and a whole lot safer for you and your horse.
Safety Tip# 2: Always snap combination snaps and pole strap and / or breast strap snaps so they face in toward the tongue.
This tip is similar to the first. Again, when these snaps are attached (to the neck yoke rings) facing outward, we have potential for the horses to catch their bits in the snaps when they rub their heads. Having the head trapped easily triggering claustrophobia and panic in horses, and often results in a disastrous wreck.
The paired combination snaps on a team harness usually come pointing in the same direction, so that on one horse the snap is safely facing inward and on the other horse the snap is unsafely pointed outward. Some of these snaps are riveted on; others are bolted on. If they are bolted on, you can simply take the bolt out and turn the snap around. If they are riveted, you don't have that option without cutting the rivet and replacing it with a bolt. If you use combination snaps, be sure they are modified as necessary so they both face inward toward the tongue.
Some breast straps attach to the neck yoke with their own snap, and are used with a pole strap that has its own snap as well. When using such setups, be certain that you snap both the breast strap snap and the pole strap snap facing inward on both ends of the neck yoke.
Although it's not impossible for a horse to get a bit ring caught when the breast and pole strap snaps are pointed inward, it's a lot more difficult because there's very little room on the inside. But on the outside, the bit and other equipment can very easily come into contact with the snaps.
Another option which offers no chance for a snap to catch a bit ring is a breast strap and pole strap design that attaches to the neck yoke rings without any snaps.
Safety Tip# 3: Attach all lines to the bit with buckles instead of snaps.
Attaching the lines to the bit with snaps was an accepted method in the old days, and unfortunately still is today.
However, using snaps to hook the lines to the bits is just not safe at all. Snaps are notorious for breaking - usually when you need then the most. In addition, an itchy or impatient horse can unhook them when he bumps or rubs his head on the neck yoke. He can also unhook or break line snaps when rubbing on his partner.
No matter what the scenario, when a snap is rubbed off or fails, you have completely lost control of your horse. Long ago, before I knew better, I had a couple of close calls and then a fairly serious wreck caused by line snaps breaking or coming off. And since then, I've heard countless stories of near misses and serious wrecks due to line snap failures.
As with other snaps, if line snaps are facing outward, a horse can snag them and therefore his bit into a multitude of other harness parts - his or her partners. This can have potentially devastating consequences as the horse becomes trapped and panics. A vision of two horses that once got their bits snapped together comes to mind.
There are a lot of different types of snaps on the market. In my opinion, all snaps - except for one type - are dangerous on driving lines. The only snap I consider is a twisted line snap. It's also called a twisted wire snap. I've never heard of them coming off and I've never had one come off myself. The downside is that they can be tricky to get on and off until you perfect the technique.
The safe way to attach lines is to buckle them on to the bit or use only the twisted line snaps. If you have other snaps on your lines, you don't need new lines; just have the ends converted to buckle type by a harness maker.
Or - as an alternative to taking or sending your lines to a harness shop - I've come up with an adapter that consists of a buckle-on line end that will easily connect to the ends of lines designed for snaps. Simply remove the snaps and use the Conway buckles on the lines to attach the adapters.
Between now and the time you get rid of any snaps on your lines, please tape the snaps with electrical tape - each and every time you drive - so they stay on and you and your horse stay safe.
Safety Tip# 4: Use equipment that prevents cross-check buckles from going through the hame or spreader rings.
If horses get too far apart, one too far ahead of the other or if one stumbles or roots with his nose, a cross check can be pulled so far forward that the cross check buckle can be pulled into - or through - the spreader or hame ring.
Sometimes you can pull it back through the ring, but generally you can't. When this happens, you completely lose control with that line. It's just the same as losing a line off the bit, and you're at risk for having the same kinds of wreck: a runaway and the potential for serious damage.
In the past, I taught my students to watch the cross check buckles closely and not let them get close to a spreader or hame ring, especially when stopped and before starting the team. But not I insist on the use of one of three simple, inexpensive pieces of equipment that prevent the buckles being pulled into or through the rings:
- If you always use spreaders, you can get a little roller system called a line spreader roller to prevent the buckles from going through the spreader rings. Most harness makers should have these or be able to order these rollers. However, they don't work on the hame rings.
- You can insert a metal ring that's too big to go through the spreader or hame rings into the cross check buckle.
- Possibly the easiest method - and my personal favorite - is to simply thread a ring too large to go through the hame or spreader rings on the cross check line and slide it towards the cross-check buckle.
The ring needs to be too large to go through the spreader or hame ring, but small enough that the cross check buckle cannot be pulled thought it. Be sure the ring ends up between the cross check buckle and the spreader or hame ring. It may be necessary to use two different sized rings on the cross check line if the one that is large enough to not go through the spreader and hame rings is too large to stop the cross check buckle from going through it. Put the smaller one behind the larger one, not in front of it.
Safety Tip# 5: Always secure slip-on neck yoke to the tongue with a safety chain.
Very few teamsters secure slip-on neck yokes to the tongue, but neck yokes unexpectedly slipping off the tongue have caused countless injuries and wrecks - many of them serious and some fatal.
if it's not attached to the tongue with a safety chain, a neck yoke can slip off and drop to the ground if a horse steps ahead during the hitching process. The neck yoke can also slip off if the traces are hooked too long, if a trace chain accidently comes unhooked from a single tree, or from other equipment maladjustments or failures.
Whatever the cause, the result can be disastrous. When a neck yoke accidently slips off the tongue, the tongue drops to the ground, and we have completely lot the ability to steer, slow down or stop the vehicle. If the horses slow or stop, the vehicle can slam into the horses from behind, injuring them and /or fanning the fire of their terror.
If the horses are moving, the tongue can beat up or even break the horses' legs as it flails side to side. The team can drag the vehicle, but steering is lost so it is likely to flip or roll. Or - the tongue can jam in the ground and catapult the vehicle, sometimes onto the horses' backs, as happened to an old-timer I knew.
Making sure the neck yoke is chained or otherwise secured to the tongue every time you hitch a team is a quick and easy way to completely prevent such catastrophic wrecks.
As handy as they are, baling twine and wire are poor choices for securing neck yokes. Although fastening a neck yoke with anything is better then not attaching it at all, baling twine or wire - even heavy wire - is an emergency-only option for me because the wire or twine will wear and break before too long.
Years ago, I used to secure my neck yokes with a hame strap. A hame strap is certainly preferable to bailing twine or wire in my opinion, and is very quick and easy to use. However, even a good leather or synthetic hame strap does not have the strength and durability of chain.
Today, I always use a chain fastened with a quick link. It has necessary strength and durability, does not come undone or fail and doesn't wear. It's quick and easy to get on and off, is inexpensive and doesn't look too tacky. I keep a safety chain and quick link fastened to every neck yoke that I use. That way when I use a neck yoke out to out it on a piece of equipment, I always have a safety chain and don't have to guess whether there's one on the tongue or not.
The quick link should be heavier then the chain, and to be completely secure. always tighten it with a wrench or pliers.
A safer alternative to slip-on neck yokes is the bolt-on design. They bolt permanently to the end of the tongue with interlocking eye bolts and therefore cannot accidentally come off.
Safety Tip# 6: Always secure doubletree pins.
When doubletree pins are not secured, they can work themselves up and fall out. If this happens, the doubletree detaches from the tongue and it can fly forward and hit the team in the rear legs. This can quickly turn into a real wreck.
It's rather amazing that unsecured doubletree pins don't come out more often than they do, but I've seen it happen several times with resulting wrecks. Here again, it's a completely preventable problem.
To prevent the doubletree pins from slipping out, I prefer to use a hard bolt for the double tree pin. I then place a washer and nut on the end of the bolt and insert a cotter pin thru a hole in the bolt just below the nut. This gives me a double safety system - nut and cotter pin. The pin is important because without it, the nuts are likely to come off.
Regardless of the type of doubletree pin, at the very least secure it with a cotter pin and a washer above the pin. Bend the cotter pin ends around the double tree pin with pliers. Be sure to use what I call an old-style cotter pin, which has ends that you bend instead of a modern-type spring clip - also called a hairpin or spring hitch pin - which will snag on things and fall out.
Safety Tip# 7: Use a "butt rope" when you ground drive a team
An all-too-common wreck can happen when a team "turns inside out" while you are ground driving. Without the traces hooked to single trees there are no outside boundaries to encourage the horses not to spread their rear ends apart - especially when backing up.
Horses in a team tend to swing their rear ends apart when backing up, and if the rear ends get far enough apart, the lines don't work properly, or - at some point - not at all. Then, as the back ends get farther and farther apart the horses can face one another and pull back, or "turn inside out" and become tangled in the lines. They commonly tear up each others' mouth with the bits, break harness and run off in a panic.
To avoid such mishaps and wrecks, it is critical that we keep our horses' rear ends appropriately close together at all times, and particularly when backing up. While there are a number of ways this can be accomplished, I prefer to use what I call a "butt rope".
A butt rope is simply a rope of proper length with a strong, safe, snap tied on each end. One snap is hooked into the outside, bottom hame ring of the first horse with the snap facing inward just like the other snaps. The rope is then threaded through the rear hip strap on the outside of the same horse. Pass the rope under this first horse's tail, over to the other horse and under his tail.
Working up the outside of the second horse, pass the rope inside the rear strap and snap into the outside, bottom hame ring wit the snap facing inward. Proper adjustment of the butt rope length lets the horses spread their rear ends only about six inches to a foot more when they are hitched and working parallel.
Once the proper rope length is established, it need not be changed unless used on horses of a significantly different size. For draft horses I use 20 feet of 3/8 - or 1/2 - inch soft, braided, poly rope with a total, finished snap-to-snap length of about 16-1/2 to 17 feet. Smaller horses require a proportionately shorter working length.
Although it is important to prevent the horses from swinging their rear ends out, it is also important that they not be held too close together. They need room to maneuver and work without crowding each other.
While some teamsters use methods such as tying the tails together or running the lines around on the outside of the horse's rear ends, I like the butt rope method best because it sets a clear, understandable boundary around the horse instead of putting pressure on the horse in a way that might be confusing to him. In addition, it's not pulling on parts of the harness that aren't designed to take a great deal of force.
Safety Tip# 8: Don't let go of the lines and trust horses to stand
A lot of people trust their horses to stand while they put down the lines and do such things as open a gate, grab a wrench from the barn or visit with a friend.
It often happens that horses so well learning to stand, and people will start trusting them more and more. But regardless of how obedient the horse is or how many years he has been trustworthy about standing unattended, there's always a chance that when least expected, he will leave the scene. If a saddle horse runs away with a saddle on his back, chances are he's not going to be hurt, but if a driving horse runs away with a vehicle or implement hooked behind him, the chances of injury and psychological damage are huge.
My first choice is to tie my horse or have someone else hold them if I have to let go of the lines. But I am often working with them alone so must repeatedly discipline myself to resist the urge to put the lines down and trust them to stand.
I sometimes use lead lines from a four-up on a team so when I get down to open a gate I can take the lines with me, go up and open the gate, step back behind the team, and drive them through the vehicle or implement and close the gate without letting go of them.
Or , I'll tie the horses to a tree or post, open the gate, untie the horses and drive through the gate, and tie them on the other side to go back and shut the gate.
To some, these may seem like time-consuming routines. However, for me, working horses isn't about time. I believe we shouldn't sacrifice the physical or mental well-being of our horses to save time.
Do I ever break this rule? Occasionally I do. I have older horses that I've been driving for over 20 years. But even with them, I trust them to stand alone only if by reading the horses I feel that at that moment on that day I can trust them. When I leave them, I don't go very far. I watch them like a hawk and if they even lean their body weight, I use "whoa" to remind them to stand. I will return to them immediately if I think it prudent or necessary.
No matter how good and trustworthy our horses are, we are always taking the risk of a wreck if we let go of the lines and trust them to stand.
Safety Tip# 9: Learn not to jerk the lines if a horse spooks.
Human error causes a lot of wrecks. One common errors is to jerk the lines to gain control or punish when a horse spooks, flinches or bolts.
When a horse spooks it often wouldn't be more then that, except for our natural reaction to jerk on the lines. When that happens, we hurt the horse's mouth. He jumps because he perceives he's in danger of being hurt or killed, and when we jerk on the lines the pain confirms his fear. After this happens two or three times, we have effectively taught the horse to try harder and faster to get away when something frightens him.
It's a real challenge, but we need to train our hands to move forward with the lines instead of jerking back on them when a horse startles, jumps or bolts.
Learning to develop this skill takes self discipline and mind-body control. It takes hours and hours of driving and practice while paying attention to give and take on the horse's mouth. Over time, your hands become pressure sensors as you learn to give of resist when a horse bolts. After you give, you need to gently regain contact and control of the horse without hurting him with the bit.
You can practice this skill with a partner. The idea is for one person to drive the other like a horse. The horse holds one end of a line in each hand against the sides of their hips. The teamster is behind the horse with a line in each hand and "drives the horse". The horse's job is to drive off nicely, but periodically spook and jerk the lines without warning. Practice until your automatic reaction is to give with the lines instead of resisting or jerking back. The trickier your partner is, the better they'll teach you to refrain from hurting your horse's mouth.
Safety Tip# 10: Always sit on or otherwise secure the lines when you're driving
It's easier to drop a line then you might think. A horse can stumble or root with his nose pretty hard, and it's not uncommon for us to simply fumble a line and drop it. If you don't have the lines secured as a backup, one or both can be lost and you can easily lose control.
My preferred safety net is to sit on the lines. I run the lines between my legs and bring them out behind me instead of tucking them under just one side of my rear end. That way the lines are less likely to pull out if I am bounced up off the seat a bit.
When you're standing up driving, for example on a wagon or a bob sled, you can tie the ends of the lines to the front rack on the wagon or sled. If there is a Jake staff, you can use half hitches to secure the line on it.
With these backup plans, if the lines are jerked out of your hands, its quick and easy to scoop them up again, and the lines cannot drop to the ground leaving you helpless to recover them.
I was explaining about sitting on the lines in a workhorse workshop at my ranch a few years ago, and I noticed that one student became distressed. When I was done talking he said, "Oh my God. If Mike had known that, he would be alive today." He had explained that his friend, Mike, had been driving mules for many years. Less the a year before, Mike was driving a pair of his mules on a buckboard when something caused him to lose one of the lines. With one line dragging on the ground he soon lost control and a full blown run away ensued.
Ultimately, the buckboard flipped over, dragging Mike down the gravel road beneath it. Mike explained that it was his fault - not the mule's fault - before he died in the hospital a few days later. Need I say more?
There are always risks when driving horses. But these 10 safety tips are proven ways of to prevent some of the more common wrecks and keep you and your horses safe.
Be kind, be safe, and enjoy those horses.
The Care and Operation of Plows
Practical Walking Plow Pointers
Walking Plows sometimes seen "cantankerous", as a veteran farmer put it. Very frequently, however, the trouble does not lie int he plow itself, but in soil condition, in the hitch, in the "set" of the share, or in adjustment of the Coulter.
After working excellently one day, perhaps your walking plow seems all wrong on the following day. Well, maybe it rained in the intervening night, The rain softened the soil, causing the share on operation to wing slightly one way or the other-just enough to cause trouble.
Or maybe there has been a change in horses, and the team used the second day doesn't walk just as the other team walked. That condition will necessitate a change in the hitch.
Of all the factors that affect the working qualities of the walking plow, hitch is the most important. Let us consider the hitch problem first.
Fig. 1 on this Illustrates:
(a) Heavy-line horse correctly hitched to a walking plow running at a normal depth.
(b) Dotted-line horse hitches too close to the same plow running at the same depth.
Note that the line of draft has been changed by the close hitch, as shown by the dotted line, from the horse's shoulder to the center of resistance on the plow bottom. This shorter hitch, unless the clevis pin is changed so as to move the evener up in the line of draft, will lift the point of the plow beam a corresponding distance, and the plow will run shallower or come entirely out of the ground. Where short traces are used, it is necessary to hitch reasonably high on the plow clevis so that they plow will maintain a uniform depth without excessive effort on the part of the operator.
Traces too long will have an opposite effect on the running of the plow. In this case, the line of the draft will be lowered proportionately to the length of the traces, and the tendency will be to pull down at the point of the beam. The result will be too deep a furrow, or the plow will run on its "nose". Lowering the clevis so as to attach the evener to the point of the plow in line of draft will overcome this condition.
Different-sized horses affect this line if draft similarly, as shown in Fig. 2, Illustrating:
(a) Heavy-line horse of normal size
(b) Dotted-line horse of smaller size
Bear in mind that the line of draft is a straight line, from the horse's shoulder, at the point where the trace is attached to the hame, backwards and down to a point approximately where the share joins the moldboard on the plow, and about three inches from the shin of the plow on this line, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. It must be understood that if a walking plow is expected to run steady and at a uniform depth, the traces must be free from the horse's shoulder to the evener. They should not be carried in hip straps.
If a new walking plow does not run steady and level when put into the ground, try adjusting the hitch up or down on the clevis, or lengthen or shorten the traces. When you find the right point of hitch, the chances are ninety-nine out of a hundred that the walking plow will run alone the entire length of the land.
Although evener and clevis adjustments can be made to remedy the condition brought on when the horses walk spread out in front or with their heads far apart, the better plan is to "jockey" the team so that they walk a uniform distance apart all the time.
The "set" of the share is important in regard to all walking plows, and is of great importance in regard to breaking plows. Bear in mind that at three points of contact at the bottom of the furrow the walking plow carries its own weight and the weight of the soil being turned.
These three points are:
The heel of the land side.
The wing of the share.
The point of the share.
As the heel of the land side and the point of the share are always approximately correct, we must look for adjustment and variation at the wing of the share. All walking-plows shares have what is termed "wing bearing". This varies on different sized plows as follows:
12" plows, 3/4" bearing; 14" plows, 1-1/4" bearing; 16" plows, 1-1/2" bearing; 18" plows, 1-3/4" bearing.
This wing bearing can be determined by placing a straight wedge from the heel of the land side to the wing to the share, as shown in Fig 3. The share should be flat according to above dimensions at the extreme wing, tapering off to no bearing at from 3" to 5" forward from the wing, according to the size of plow. This wing bearing is very carefully set at the factory for normal conditions.
As different soil conditions are encountered in different communities, this wing bearing will not always be absolutely correct for the different conditions encountered. If, after correctly hitching to it, a walking plow does not run level, process as follows to correct the difficulty:
If the share side of the plow crowds up, you can over some this trouble by slightly bending the wing of the share down. If the share side of the plow pulls down, overcome this by slightly bending the wing of the share up. This can best be accomplishment by using a monkey-wrench with the jaws practically closed and very gently bending the extreme edge of the share up or down, as the case may be, the length of the wing bearing. All sod-breaking plows are equipped with solid steel or crucible shares, and these will respond very readily to the monkey-wrench treatment without danger of breakage. Stubble and general-purpose plows, however, are regularly equipped with hard soft-center steel shares. Great care must be taken in attempting to bend the wings of these shares so as not to break them. The plow is very sensitive to this wing-bearing adjustment, and sometimes the winging up or down may be over-come by filling a slight bevel edge on the upper side when the plow wings up and on the under side when the plow wings down.
If a standing, hanging or any other kind of stiff cutter is used, it is very important that it line up straight with the land side of the plow. A very little lead one way or the other will destroy the steady-running qualities of the best plow on earth.
If a rolling Coulter is used, it should be attached to the beath so that the hub of the Coulter is slightly back of the point of the share-say, from 2" to 3-1/2". The rolling Coulter should be adjusted on the beam so that it cuts from 1/2" to 5/8" wider than the shin of the plow. This will insure a clean furrow.
Extreme care is taken in the manufacture of walking plows so that they reach the farmer uniformly and properly adjusted to meet advantage plowing conditions. if the same care will be exercised by farmers in hitching correctly to the plow and keeping the share in proper condition, the walking plow will give service for a long term of years, with no cause for complaint.
It is usually a good plan to plow a considerable time before planting, so the soil may store moisture and settle into good seed-bed condition. This practice allows for surface tillage, which destroys weeds and makes food available.
Tuning Up Wheel Plows
There is no better time to get the wheel plow in shape for another season's work then immediately after you have concluded this season's work.
FIRST-Examine the wheel boxes. If they have been properly lubricated, they should last as long as any other part of the plow. However, in summer and fall-plowing particularly, the ground is frequently dry and dusty, and if overlooked for only a short time, the wheel boxes will cut out and very rapidly. If the boxes are badly worn, they should be renewed; if not, they should be slipped off the axle and both axle and box washed clean with kerosene, and a fresh supply of grease applied. The wheels are fastened to the axle on practically all wheel plows in three distinct ways; a clamp or hinged collar on the inner end of the box, a collar in the middle box (the box in this case being in two pieces), or a collar and linchpin on the end of the axle. In any case, if the collar has become badly worn so as to allow excessive end play of the wheel box on the axle, it should be replaced with a new one.
The foregoing points are indicated in the accompanying cut by lines marked "A".
SECOND-Examine your shares. No other part of a plow so quickly affects its good running and good working qualities as the share. Shares must be not only reasonably sharp at all times; they also must be properly shaped and set when heated for sharpening, and they should not be allowed to rust.
The points covered above are indicated in the accompanying cut by lines marked "B"
THIRD-On high-lift, foot-lift plows, suspended by one or two bails, examine the bail stops. These are located on the right frame bar, and on the front frame bar. They should be so adjusted that when the plow is locked down in plowing position, the bails rest securely on the stops. The bail bearings should also be examined, and if they are worn loose and sloppy, take the cap off and file or grind it until it fits snug with all bolts tight. This will help greatly in keeping the plow running steady and quiet.
These points are indicated in the accompanying cut by lines marked "C".
FOURTH-Examine the rolling Coulter and hub bearing. Coulter's should be sharp and well polished. If they come out of the field that way, grease then with some clean oil or grease. A dull rolling Coulter acts like a gauge wheel, prevents the plow from penetrating properly, and increases the draft. Coulter hub bearings, if badly worn, should be renewed. The rolling Coulter should not be permitted to get loose enough on the hub bearings so that it cannot be kept running true and steady.
The foregoing points are indicated in the accompanying cut bylines marked "D".
FIFTH-Check up on the location of the rear axle collar. This collar on both high-lift and low-lift plows should support the rear end of the frame and transmit the weight of the entire plow and rider to the rear wheel. If it has slipped down on the axle, this weight will be carried on the bottom of the plow lanside. This will increase the draft and throw the plow of of level.
SIXTH-Rear axle frame bearing carries the vertical part of the rear axle, end, in addition to carrying the weight of the plow and rider, it transmits the side pressure created by the moldboards to the rear furrow wheel. If this bearing becomes badly worn, the land side of the rear plow will have to carry this pressure, in place of the rear wheel. This will increase the draft and wear out the land side prematurely. on the plow illustrated, this bearing is provided with a take-up at "F" by means of a slot in the specially-designed casting with heavy bolts at both the upper and lower end. This makes it easy to keep a snug fit on the bearing.
SEVENTH-Front furrow axle frame bearing should fit snugly, in order to keep the wheel running at the proper angle, and the front furrow at the proper width. This, however, is not quite so important as the rear axle frame bearing, as in most sulky or gang plows the manufacturers provide an adjustment at the right front corner of the frame, or where the furrow axle bearing is attached to the frame, so that this may be moved in or out, to widen or narrow the furrow.
And last, but not least, do not overlook loose nuts or badly-worn bolts. Go over the plow from stem to stern, tighten up every loose bolt and replace those that are badly worn. Fit all new bolts with lock washers-it is well worth while. You can save horseflesh by carefully checking up the forgoing adjustments, on your horse-drawn plows. Make the wheels carry the load-that is what they are intended for.
Rear Axle Adjustments
The rear wheel should be set in the corner of the furrow and carry the land side-pressure.
Adjust at "F", moving the bracket towards the land until the rear end of land side sets about 1/2" away from the furrow wall when the plow is at work. If you can place your fingers between the land side and furrow wall at point "X", the setting is all right.
Adjust at "H" on the connection rod to set rear wheel to run straight.
Rear wheel should carry the weight at the rear. The land side on the rear bottom should set about 5/8" above the furrow bottom.
Adjust the collar at "E" up or down until the land side sets about the thickness of your fingers (5/8") above the bottom of the furrow.
Line Of Draft On All Plow Bott
Correct Hitch On Riding Plows
We must assume, in discussing the correct hitch in a three-wheel plow, that all adjustments of the plow are correct and the share properly sharpened. If the plow be a new one, erected according to factory instructions and none of the adjustments are changed, you can proceed with the assurance that with a correct hitch, the plow will work as it was intended.
The wheels are attached to a three-wheel plow for the purpose of carrying the entire load, regulating the depth and width of furrow or furrow to be turned. Keep this point firmly in your mind.
The load consists of the weight of the plow, the weight of the operator and the weight of the soil being lifted and turned. All of this weight should be carried on the wheels and non of it carried by the team, on account of improper hitch.
Now, just what is the correct hitch on a three-wheel plow, and what is the result of an incorrect hitch?
The picture on this page is for the purpose of illustrating the true line of draft when a three-wheel plow is pulled by horse-power. This line of draft you will notice is from a point indicating the center of resistance on plow bottom to the point where the tug or trace attaches to the hame at the horse's shoulder. The correct place to hitch, then, would be at a point where this line passes through the vertical part of your plow clevis. The dotted lines show the effect at this point on your vertical clevis of too short a hitch when horses are worked abreast. The natural tendency tendency is to hitch too close to a three-wheel plow.
Understand, then, that if you hitch too close or too low on a three-wheel plow, your team will carry a good portion of the load on their traces rather than allow it to be rolled along on the wheels of the plow. The weight they carry will be taken largely from the front furrow wheel.
By hitching too close or too low, you have not only added this weight on your team but you have taken always the means of controlling the plow, because without proper weight on the front furrow wheel, it will not be possible for you to control accurately the width or depth of furrow.
A good rule to go by on this point is to hitch long enough and high enough so that you have as much weight on the front furrow wheel as you have on the rear furrow wheel. A long hitch is better to accomplish this, rather than a high hitch, as the long hitch affords more room for your horses to walk, making it all the easier on them.
You can test this very nicely after you have opened up your land and your plow is running at the depth you want it to run. Slip off the seat and grab the front furrow wheel and see how much effort it takes for you to slide it. Then so the same thing to the rear furrow wheel. Adjust your hitch until you have as much resistance on the front furrow wheel as you have on the rear wheel furrow.
You will be surprised at the difference it will make to your team when you relieve them of carrying part of the load of the plow and lengthen their traces enough so they simply roll the load along.
If you will follow these simple instructions, you will have no trouble in getting a proper hitch so far as the vertical adjustment of your clevis is concerned. With this part of your hitch right, move your evener clevis sidewise on the cross clevis of the plow, whether it be a sulky or a gang plow, until your team walks comparatively straight. Do not insist on hitching directly in front of the point if the beam, on a single-bottom plow, or between the point of the two beams on a two-bottom plow. If you do and use fairly good-sized horses, they will have to walk sidewise and the traces will chafe their legs. With the first hitch adjustment proper, you will have sufficient weight on the front furrow wheel, so that you can get over far enough on the cross clevis to allow your horses to walk away straight and free.
Do not lay aside the evener recommended by a plow manufacturer who has worked for years and years perfecting such an evener and plow, for any of the new-fanged "patent" eveners that you may find offered for sale today. which often prove very unsatisfactory.
The ideal hitch for a two-bottom gang plow is the five-horse strung-out hitch. Most of us do not take into consideration the real load we are putting on the horses when using only four horses on a gang plow, as compared with three horses on the ordinary 16" sulky plow. Suppose both plows are running six inches deep. The three horses on a 16" sulky plow are each cutting and turning 5-1/3" of the furrow slice, whereas, the four horses on a 14" two-bottom gang plow, cutting and turning a total of 28", are each cutting and turning 7" of soil, or an increase over the sulky plow team of approximately 30 per cent per horse. Figuring the other way, two horses on a 16" sulky plow would each pull only 1/7, or about 14 per cent more than is required of each of the four horses on the gang plow.
STUDY THESE HITCHES CAREFULLY
Notice the different hitches and notice the position of the evener and clevis in each. Many experiments have proved that hitching in the manner shown here results in lighter draft and better work.
One who has never driven horses hitched tandem, or strung out, on a gang plow, may object to the team not being quite so convenient to handle. This objection will soon be overcome if you will just try it out, because your horses will so the work so much easier, and will very soon become accustomed to the strung out manner of being hitched. Then also, it has been the writer's experience that is practically every team of four or five horses, some of them wuill work better in one position in the team than another. After a little practice in shifting the horses around until you get then located so they work in the most contented position, better results will follow. A horse cannot render efficient service when nervous and fretted, any more than human beings can.
Have a real care for your horses; hitch them so they will be the most comfortable at work, and you will be surprised at the additional service they will render you, and it will also improve the operation of your plow.
One of the cuts on the opposite page illustrates the common four-horse-abreast hitch on a two-bottom gang plow. The heavy outlines on this illustration represent four horses hitched to work to the best possible advantage. The dotted outlines represent the same team working to very great disadvantage, both to the horses and to the plow, and I am sorry to say that this is not at all an uncommon condition.
Note the difference where the dotted line crosses the plow clevis and evener, showing clearly the added side draft caused by working the horses with their heads too far apart.
The most favorable four-horse abreast hitch that can possibly be secured creates considerable side draft, because the center of the team is well to the side of the center of the plow. You will note by referring to this cut again, that the horse next to the furrow is almost exactly straight ahead of the center of resistance in the plow, and every inch that the three land horses swing away from the furrow horse, not only increases the side draft, but increases the direct draft as well.
Carrying this to the extreme, let us just imagine that the third horse from the furrow be permitted to swing around far enough to pull straight from the end of the evener, at a right angle to the line of travel of the plow and the furrow horse. This, you can appreciate, would not help to move the plow forward.
Now you may say that especially during the hot summer and fall plowing, and also when the ground is harder and requires more power for plowing, that the horses should have more room, and, consequently, should be permitted to work farther apart. With this we agree most heartily-if you will work the horses tandem, or strung out, they will have all of the room they need, and will be working more nearly in front of the line of draft of the plow; consequently, they will pull it easier.
It is better to plow when too dry then when to wet, and don't delay the work too near seeding time.
When Furrows Do Not Lie Alike
A common complaint is that furrows are not uniform. This applies particularly to gang plows or wheel plows with more than one bottom. This complaint may be due to any one of the following faults: First, frame of plow not level; second, improper rolling Coulter adjustment; third, improper front furrow-wheel adjustment; and fourth, incorrect hitch.
The frame should be parallel with the surface of the field. If the field being plowed has a slope, the gang-plow frame should slope accordingly; otherwise one plow bottom will run deeper than the other and the furrows will not be uniform.
It is very important that both rolling coulters be adjusted an equal distance-outside to "land"-from the shin of the plow. For instance, if you are using a gang plow with two 14-inch bottoms, and the front rolling Coulter is set flush with the shin of the plow, this robs the front plow bottom of from one-half to five-eighths of an inch of its furrow slice. With the rear rolling Coulter set from three-fourths of an inch to one inch to "land, " it adds that much to the rear plow furrow slice. This causes the front plow to turn a 13-1/2-inch furrow slice and the rear plow 15-inch, and as a result the furrows are not uniform.
It is also important that the front furrow wheel be adjusted so that the front plow can freely cut a full-width furrow. If the front furrow wheel is adjusted so that when it is run in the corner of the furrow the front plow cannot cut freely a full-width furrow, whereas the rear plow, owing to the spacing of the beams, must always cut a full-width furrow-here again the furrows will not be uniform. With rolling coulters properly adjusted, measure the furrow slice from the rolling Coulter to the edge of furrow wall. This, on a 14-inch bottom gang plow, should measure 14 inches. Adjust the front wheel "in" or "out" until this measurement is obtained.
And here again comes importance of correct hitch. With the frame level, rolling coulters properly adjusted, and furrow wheel properly adjusted, it is still possible to hitch so low or so far out of line on the clevis of the plow that the front furrow wheel will not run snugly in the corner of the furrow. Lengthen the traces and make adjustments on the cross clevis of the plow until the front furrow wheel runs snugly in the corner of the furrow.
What Causes A Wheel Plow To Upset
Setting on the seat of a good wheel plow in operation if just as safe as sitting on a chair in your home-providing the horses are hitched to the plow correctly. Attention to just a few details will prevent upsets.
The complaint of upsetting is most common on the three-wheel pole plows, although it occurs sometimes on the pole less plows.
When hitching too close and too low on a three-wheel plow, the weight on the front furrow wheel and on the land wheel is lessened to a considerable extent. Instead of the weight being carried on these wheels in equal proportion with the rear wheel, additional weight is thrust upon the rear wheel and a considerable amount of it is carried through the hitch by the team. This, you will readily see, practically suspends the plow between the horses' shoulders through the traces and evener, and the rear wheel.
Now, as the land wheel stands a considerable distance away from the plow, it is practically impossible to upset the plow toward the land or unplowed ground. The furrow wheel stands very close to the beam, the width of furrow between the rim of the wheel and the beam, so it does not require a great amount of effort to upset the plow toward the plowed ground. This usually occurs then turning "gee" with a right-hand plow or on hillsides. The remedy for this condition is to lengthen the hitch or to raise it on the vertical clevis. In all cases, it is better to lengthen the hitch.
on practically all three-wheel plows, when equipped with pole, the pole is attached to the top of the furrow axle almost directly over the furrow wheel. The evener is attached to the point of the beam, or, in case of a gang plow, to the cross clevis, some distance to land from the point to which the pole is attached. In the case of a fourteen-inch gang plow, this distance is considerable.
The neck-yoke is attached to the pole by means of a sliding device, providing from 12 inches to 18 inches of room for the neck-yoke to play on the pole forward or back. In turning "haw" wot the right-hand plow, the neck-yoke will slide forward on the pole, and the traces will slacken so the plow will turn freely, even though the hitch be too short or too low. In turning "gee," however, the effect is exactly opposite. The neck-yoke slides back on the pole to the stop, the plow will upset very easily. Here, again, the remedy is to lengthen the traces. In case of emergency, where traces so not permit of sufficient adjustment, move the stop on the pole backward so the neck-yoke can slip back further on the pole when turning "gee". This will prevent the traces from tightening and pulling the plow over.
In considering the foregoing instructions, it is understood that the plow is correctly assembled and all adjustments properly made; particularly may the share be in good condition. A share badly worn and rounded off like a sled-runner will cause the plow to ride out of the ground and upset easily.
Hitching To Prevent Side Draft
To begin with, side draft, whether it be in a horse-drawn implement or a tractor-drawn implement, is the result of not being able to attach the center of the pulling power to the center of the load or object to be moved. The reason we do not hear about this side draft on wagons, where but two horses are uses, or on drag harrows, cultivators and other implements used in similar operations, is that there is nothing to interfere with the proper hitch of the team or other motive power.
The reason we hear so much about side draft on plows, binders and other pole implements where three horses are used, is due to the inability to hitch the exact center of the motive power to the center of the load. In case of the plow, the furrow and the plowed ground interfere with the proper hitch of the team. In other words the space is limited for one side of the team. This necessitates locating the team to one side of the center. The same is true in the case of the binder. The standing grain limits the amount of room the team may occupy in front of the binder. Where three horses are hitched to a wagon, manure spreader or other implement of this character, the pole being in the center of the implement, prevents locating the team so that the center of the team is directly in front of the load.
Sharpening And Setting Plow Shares
The following suggestions apply only to all-steel plows. They are of no value where chilled shares are used. A number of illustrations, clearly marked and lettered for ready reference, are given.
The share should be watched closely and, when dull, taken to a competent blacksmith for sharpening, setting and hardening. The condition of the share has a direct effect on the operation of the plow. A dull share will not penetrate hard ground. It will not run steady. It will give trouble in difficult scouring soil.
Usually it is better to take the plow to the blacksmith shop so that the share can be properly fitted after it is sharpened.
Heat the point of the share to a low "cherry red, " not too hot, and hammer the top side until the point of sharp. Hammer at a "cherry red" only. Do not work the share at a high heat, as it destroys the quality of the steel. After the point of the share is properly drawn out and sharpened, proceed to heat at one time, only as much of the share as can be hammered while it is red. Draw the entire cutting edge from the under side until it is sharp. The body of the share should not be heated while sharpening, but should be kept as cool as possible so as not to warp the share at the fitting edge.
Should the share become warped at the fitting edge during the sharpening process, correct this by truing it on the plow before hardening. The fitting edge of the share can be trued up at a "black heat" to fit the plow properly.
If possible, have a surface plate perfectly level on which to set the share. In the absence of a surface plate a straight-edge will do.
Refer now to Figure 1. Draw the point of the share down so there is 1/16-inch clearance under the land side at point "A".
Refer now to Figure 2. Shape the cutting edge of the share so there will be from 1/16-inch to 1/8-inch clearance at point "B".
Refer now to Figure 3. Walking plows shares have a wing bearing. With the share fitted to the plow bottoms, a straight-edge placed at the rear of the land side, point "C", and extending to the wing of the share, point "D", should touch back of the edge of the share on different sized plows, as follows:
On the 12-inch plow, the wing of the share should be flat for 3/4-inch; on the 14-inch plow, for 1-1/4 inches; on the 16-inch plow, for 1-1/2 inches; and on the 18-inch plow, for 1-3/4 inches.
Shares for 10-inch walking plows, and narrower than 10-inch, do not have wing bearing.
Understand this measurement applies to the extreme wing of the share. This should run out to the edge of the share at from three to five inches from the wing, according to the size of the plow.
In sharpening, be careful not to turn the share point to the right or to the left.
When fitted to the plow, there should be about 1/4-inch clearance at point "E", Figure 4.
The following measurements apply to setting of steel shares.
Draw the point of the share down until there is 1/8-inch clearance at point "A". The clearance in the throat of the share, at point "B", must be at least 1/8-inch. Shape the share at the wing, WITHOUT WING BEARING. As all wheel plows are carried level by means of wheels, it is not necessary to provide this wing bearing to carry the plow level. Longer service and lighter draft will result in setting wheel plow shares without wing bearing.
With the share properly sharpened, properly set and fitted, it is important to harden it. Unless the share is hardened or tempered its life will be shortened and it will soon become dull again.
Prepare the fire to heat the entire share uniformly to a "cherry red." Great care should be used in getting the heat uniform. Take the share from the fire and dip it into a tub of clean, cold water-put the share into the eater with the cutting edge down and hold the share in this position until it is cooled.
These instructions apply to soft-center steel shares, or what is generally termed hard shares. Tempering crucible-steel shares is a doubtful procedure.
Rolling Coulter's And Jointer's
With the ever-increasing use of tractor plows it becomes more and more necessary to use correctly the proper attachments to insure a good job of plowing. With the good old walking plow a plow-man can follow, and can tramp on the furrow here and give it a pat there to make it lay over properly. He can also pull out a bunch of trash that may accumulate, or shake it loose as he moves along. With the riding plow this becomes more difficult to so, and with the tractor plow it is impossible, since the operator is on the tractor.
The tow attachments most commonly used are the Rolling Coulter and the Jointer. We discuss first the rolling Coulter.
The function of the rolling Coulter in loose ground is to insure a clean furrow and cut trash so it does not accumulate in the throat of the plow. The adjustments necessary to accomplish this work are comparatively few and simple. To cut sod and roots and thereby lighten the plow in breaking, have these things in mind:
First: To insure a clean furrow the Coulter should be set to cut at least one-half inch wider than the cut of the plow, or toward the unplowed land from the shin of the plow. The Coulter in this position will make a clean cut, and the plow following will turn the furrow away from this cut, leaving the furrow wall standing clean.
Second: When plowing loose land, or going what is commonly termed, "stubble plowing," where there is very much trash, the Coulter should not be set deeper than about one and one-half inches. There seams to be more or less of a general idea that the more trash there is to cut, the deeper the Coulter should be set, or, to quote a old saying often heard, "Set her good and deep so that it will cut through all of it." This is wrong.
Third: In breaking, the Coulter should be set deep because here its function is to cut the sod and roots, and it can be run well into the hub of the Coulter when plowing six inches or more deep.
Fourth: The fore and aft location of the rolling Coulter should be with the hub of the Coulter about three inches back from the point of the plow. Experience teaches that this is the best location for average plowing conditions. In extremely loose and trashy soil it is sometimes advisable to move farther forward so the Coulter has the chance to cut against the firm soil before the plow starts to lift and loosen it.
Just remember two things: In loose, trashy land, the Coulter must cut the trash on top of the soil. This requires a shallow adjustment. In sod or breaking, the Coulter must cut the roots beneath the surface of the mound, and this requires a deep adjustment.
Another point bearing on the necessity for shallow adjustment in trash is the fact that the shallower the Coulter is set, the more clearance there is between or below the Coulter stem and yoke and the less danger of clogging.
Now about jointers: The eastern farmer from Indiana and Michigan, through to the Atlantic coast, is thoroughly familiar with the jointer. The western farmer is just beginning to find out what a splendid attachment this is on a plow. The function of the jointer is to cut and turn a small furrow at the extreme land side edge of the big furrow. In loose, trashy land, this puts the trash well away from the furrow edge, covers it up, and insures a perfectly clean job of plowing.. In sod the same thing is accomplished, so there are no ragged edges of the furrow protruding and no grass left near enough to the surface to start growing and interfere with crop raising and cultivation. The Jointer is also a splendid aid in pulverizing the soil. Many farmers claim that a field plowed with the jointer attachment is in a better state of pulverization that the same field plowed without it and harrowed once.
The adjustment of the jointer is very simple. It should be adjusted so the point of the jointer sets approximately over or slightly ahead of the point of the plow, and towards the unplowed land from the shin of the plow from one-half to three and a quarter inches, so that it will cut and lift the small furrow and leave a clean standing furrow wall.
Special Corn Borer Equipment Clean plowing is undoubtedly the most essential means of stopping the European Corn Borer. Clean plowing, of course, is always beneficial, whether you have corn-borer infested fields or not.
Clean plowing consists of covering all trash deeply and completely, leaving the surface of the plowed field absolutely clean and free of trash.
Rolling Coulter: The rolling Coulter is of much importance in clean plowing. The Coulter should be sharp so it will cut down through the surface trash.
Independent Jointer: The independent jointer is ideal equipment, as the jointer can be set at a definite and invariable position, and, being rigidly attached to the beam, it goes through all conditions. Again, it has no effect on the Coulter, allowing the Coulter to do its work of cutting without interference.
Moldboard Extension: The object of a moldboard wing extension is to control the furrow slice after it passes the wing of the moldboard. It helps in securing clean plowing, as it insures close lapping of the furrow slices and thus eliminates openings between the furrow slices.
Trash Wire: A No. 9 wire about 10 feet long, which can be clipped to the Coulter shank, makes a good trash wire for holding down the loose trash. It never clogs, regardless for conditions.
Weed Rod: The addition of a weed rod may sometimes be helpful. It should be clipped to the beam above the shin of the moldboard.
Disk Plow Adjustments Lifting springs are worked into the design of these plows to make then easy to handle. The springs should have the proper tension. If too tight they will cause the land wheel to slide when the plow enters the ground. If the wiping is too loose the land wheel may slide when the plow is being lifted. Adjust accordingly.
An adjustment is provided at point “A” for raising or lowering the rear wheel and axle. The rear wheel should be so adjusted that the rear disk runs level with the wheel. An adjustment is also provided, point “B”, to align the rear wheel. Rear wheel should run straight or with a very slight lead towards the plowed ground.
When plowing in extra hard soil, it is sometimes necessary to add extra weight. Wheel weights can be obtained for the front and rear furrow wheels to provide this additional weight.
When plowing very soft land, the wheels sometimes sink too deeply, making it difficult to control the depth of the plowing. For such conditions extension rims, or wheel flanges, are furnished, and can be used on all three wheels.
As the disk is the cutting and penetrating part of the plow, performing the same function as the share and moldboard of the moldboard plow, it is important that the disks be kept sharp. Dull disks will not penetrate well when the ground is hard, and they will not scour well when the ground is soft and sticky. Sharpen disks by filing or grinding the plate at edge on the back side. A good many blacksmith and machine shops in territories where disk plows are used, are now equipped with a grinding machine for sharpening disks, and if you have one in your locality, I would recommend that you patronize it, rather than try to sharpen the disks yourself.
Disks and scrapers should not be allowed to rust, and when though plowing for the season, should be given a coat of good grease or hard oil.
The scraper on a disk plow is a part of the moldboard, and should be adjusted according to the depth of plowing and conditions of soil. These conditions vary so much that it is difficult to recommend a standard adjustment for disk plow scrapers. Ample adjustment is provided to meet all conditions. Try different settings until you obtain one that gives you the best results.
The directions furnished by the manufacturer of your plow contain valuable information regarding your particular plow. Keep them handy for future reference.
The Horse-Drawn Disk Plow
In a general way, all that has been said about the care and operation of the tractor-drawn disk plow will apply to the horse-drawn implement. With the horse-drawn disk plow we get back to the hitch problem again. As the two-disk horse-drawn plow will probably be used in the majority of cases we will take up, briefly, the four-horse-abreast hitch common to that size of disk plow.
Here the best results are obtained by using the type of evener recommended by the plow manufacturer, attached according to instructions furnished with the plow. In hitching a hour-horse abreast team to the disk plow it is important that the horses be trained or hitched so that they walk with their heads quite close together. Do not allow your team to spread out fan-shaped when pulling. If necessary, use jockey stick to keep the heads in far enough so the horses will walk straight.
Adjustment is provided on the hitch to move the evener sidewise to accommodate larger or smaller teams and still leave the front furrow wheel running at its proper place in the furrow. For average plowing depths, attach the evener on the top side of the hitch plate. If plowing very shallow, place the hammer strap and evener on the underside of the hitch plate. This will be more nearly in the line of draft for shallow plowing.
Just a word to the users of disk plows which have been in service for some time. If you still have the printed directions furnished by the manufacturer of your plow, check over your plow according to these directions; sharpen up the old disks; tighten up all bolts, or replace with new ones where necessary; lubricate all working parts-and the old plow should go out and do good work for you. If you have lost your directions and the plow is not working as it should, and the instructions herein do not cover all of the adjustments on your plow, write the manufacturer of your plow, or have your dealer write for you, and get a set of directions. This will help you to get your plow in the best possible condition.
Practical Walking Plow Pointers
Walking Plows sometimes seen "cantankerous", as a veteran farmer put it. Very frequently, however, the trouble does not lie int he plow itself, but in soil condition, in the hitch, in the "set" of the share, or in adjustment of the Coulter.
After working excellently one day, perhaps your walking plow seems all wrong on the following day. Well, maybe it rained in the intervening night, The rain softened the soil, causing the share on operation to wing slightly one way or the other-just enough to cause trouble.
Or maybe there has been a change in horses, and the team used the second day doesn't walk just as the other team walked. That condition will necessitate a change in the hitch.
Of all the factors that affect the working qualities of the walking plow, hitch is the most important. Let us consider the hitch problem first.
Fig. 1 on this Illustrates:
(a) Heavy-line horse correctly hitched to a walking plow running at a normal depth.
(b) Dotted-line horse hitches too close to the same plow running at the same depth.
Note that the line of draft has been changed by the close hitch, as shown by the dotted line, from the horse's shoulder to the center of resistance on the plow bottom. This shorter hitch, unless the clevis pin is changed so as to move the evener up in the line of draft, will lift the point of the plow beam a corresponding distance, and the plow will run shallower or come entirely out of the ground. Where short traces are used, it is necessary to hitch reasonably high on the plow clevis so that they plow will maintain a uniform depth without excessive effort on the part of the operator.
Traces too long will have an opposite effect on the running of the plow. In this case, the line of the draft will be lowered proportionately to the length of the traces, and the tendency will be to pull down at the point of the beam. The result will be too deep a furrow, or the plow will run on its "nose". Lowering the clevis so as to attach the evener to the point of the plow in line of draft will overcome this condition.
Different-sized horses affect this line if draft similarly, as shown in Fig. 2, Illustrating:
(a) Heavy-line horse of normal size
(b) Dotted-line horse of smaller size
Bear in mind that the line of draft is a straight line, from the horse's shoulder, at the point where the trace is attached to the hame, backwards and down to a point approximately where the share joins the moldboard on the plow, and about three inches from the shin of the plow on this line, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. It must be understood that if a walking plow is expected to run steady and at a uniform depth, the traces must be free from the horse's shoulder to the evener. They should not be carried in hip straps.
If a new walking plow does not run steady and level when put into the ground, try adjusting the hitch up or down on the clevis, or lengthen or shorten the traces. When you find the right point of hitch, the chances are ninety-nine out of a hundred that the walking plow will run alone the entire length of the land.
Although evener and clevis adjustments can be made to remedy the condition brought on when the horses walk spread out in front or with their heads far apart, the better plan is to "jockey" the team so that they walk a uniform distance apart all the time.
The "set" of the share is important in regard to all walking plows, and is of great importance in regard to breaking plows. Bear in mind that at three points of contact at the bottom of the furrow the walking plow carries its own weight and the weight of the soil being turned.
These three points are:
The heel of the land side.
The wing of the share.
The point of the share.
As the heel of the land side and the point of the share are always approximately correct, we must look for adjustment and variation at the wing of the share. All walking-plows shares have what is termed "wing bearing". This varies on different sized plows as follows:
12" plows, 3/4" bearing; 14" plows, 1-1/4" bearing; 16" plows, 1-1/2" bearing; 18" plows, 1-3/4" bearing.
This wing bearing can be determined by placing a straight wedge from the heel of the land side to the wing to the share, as shown in Fig 3. The share should be flat according to above dimensions at the extreme wing, tapering off to no bearing at from 3" to 5" forward from the wing, according to the size of plow. This wing bearing is very carefully set at the factory for normal conditions.
As different soil conditions are encountered in different communities, this wing bearing will not always be absolutely correct for the different conditions encountered. If, after correctly hitching to it, a walking plow does not run level, process as follows to correct the difficulty:
If the share side of the plow crowds up, you can over some this trouble by slightly bending the wing of the share down. If the share side of the plow pulls down, overcome this by slightly bending the wing of the share up. This can best be accomplishment by using a monkey-wrench with the jaws practically closed and very gently bending the extreme edge of the share up or down, as the case may be, the length of the wing bearing. All sod-breaking plows are equipped with solid steel or crucible shares, and these will respond very readily to the monkey-wrench treatment without danger of breakage. Stubble and general-purpose plows, however, are regularly equipped with hard soft-center steel shares. Great care must be taken in attempting to bend the wings of these shares so as not to break them. The plow is very sensitive to this wing-bearing adjustment, and sometimes the winging up or down may be over-come by filling a slight bevel edge on the upper side when the plow wings up and on the under side when the plow wings down.
If a standing, hanging or any other kind of stiff cutter is used, it is very important that it line up straight with the land side of the plow. A very little lead one way or the other will destroy the steady-running qualities of the best plow on earth.
If a rolling Coulter is used, it should be attached to the beath so that the hub of the Coulter is slightly back of the point of the share-say, from 2" to 3-1/2". The rolling Coulter should be adjusted on the beam so that it cuts from 1/2" to 5/8" wider than the shin of the plow. This will insure a clean furrow.
Extreme care is taken in the manufacture of walking plows so that they reach the farmer uniformly and properly adjusted to meet advantage plowing conditions. if the same care will be exercised by farmers in hitching correctly to the plow and keeping the share in proper condition, the walking plow will give service for a long term of years, with no cause for complaint.
It is usually a good plan to plow a considerable time before planting, so the soil may store moisture and settle into good seed-bed condition. This practice allows for surface tillage, which destroys weeds and makes food available.
Tuning Up Wheel Plows
There is no better time to get the wheel plow in shape for another season's work then immediately after you have concluded this season's work.
FIRST-Examine the wheel boxes. If they have been properly lubricated, they should last as long as any other part of the plow. However, in summer and fall-plowing particularly, the ground is frequently dry and dusty, and if overlooked for only a short time, the wheel boxes will cut out and very rapidly. If the boxes are badly worn, they should be renewed; if not, they should be slipped off the axle and both axle and box washed clean with kerosene, and a fresh supply of grease applied. The wheels are fastened to the axle on practically all wheel plows in three distinct ways; a clamp or hinged collar on the inner end of the box, a collar in the middle box (the box in this case being in two pieces), or a collar and linchpin on the end of the axle. In any case, if the collar has become badly worn so as to allow excessive end play of the wheel box on the axle, it should be replaced with a new one.
The foregoing points are indicated in the accompanying cut by lines marked "A".
SECOND-Examine your shares. No other part of a plow so quickly affects its good running and good working qualities as the share. Shares must be not only reasonably sharp at all times; they also must be properly shaped and set when heated for sharpening, and they should not be allowed to rust.
The points covered above are indicated in the accompanying cut by lines marked "B"
THIRD-On high-lift, foot-lift plows, suspended by one or two bails, examine the bail stops. These are located on the right frame bar, and on the front frame bar. They should be so adjusted that when the plow is locked down in plowing position, the bails rest securely on the stops. The bail bearings should also be examined, and if they are worn loose and sloppy, take the cap off and file or grind it until it fits snug with all bolts tight. This will help greatly in keeping the plow running steady and quiet.
These points are indicated in the accompanying cut by lines marked "C".
FOURTH-Examine the rolling Coulter and hub bearing. Coulter's should be sharp and well polished. If they come out of the field that way, grease then with some clean oil or grease. A dull rolling Coulter acts like a gauge wheel, prevents the plow from penetrating properly, and increases the draft. Coulter hub bearings, if badly worn, should be renewed. The rolling Coulter should not be permitted to get loose enough on the hub bearings so that it cannot be kept running true and steady.
The foregoing points are indicated in the accompanying cut bylines marked "D".
FIFTH-Check up on the location of the rear axle collar. This collar on both high-lift and low-lift plows should support the rear end of the frame and transmit the weight of the entire plow and rider to the rear wheel. If it has slipped down on the axle, this weight will be carried on the bottom of the plow lanside. This will increase the draft and throw the plow of of level.
SIXTH-Rear axle frame bearing carries the vertical part of the rear axle, end, in addition to carrying the weight of the plow and rider, it transmits the side pressure created by the moldboards to the rear furrow wheel. If this bearing becomes badly worn, the land side of the rear plow will have to carry this pressure, in place of the rear wheel. This will increase the draft and wear out the land side prematurely. on the plow illustrated, this bearing is provided with a take-up at "F" by means of a slot in the specially-designed casting with heavy bolts at both the upper and lower end. This makes it easy to keep a snug fit on the bearing.
SEVENTH-Front furrow axle frame bearing should fit snugly, in order to keep the wheel running at the proper angle, and the front furrow at the proper width. This, however, is not quite so important as the rear axle frame bearing, as in most sulky or gang plows the manufacturers provide an adjustment at the right front corner of the frame, or where the furrow axle bearing is attached to the frame, so that this may be moved in or out, to widen or narrow the furrow.
And last, but not least, do not overlook loose nuts or badly-worn bolts. Go over the plow from stem to stern, tighten up every loose bolt and replace those that are badly worn. Fit all new bolts with lock washers-it is well worth while. You can save horseflesh by carefully checking up the forgoing adjustments, on your horse-drawn plows. Make the wheels carry the load-that is what they are intended for.
Rear Axle Adjustments
The rear wheel should be set in the corner of the furrow and carry the land side-pressure.
Adjust at "F", moving the bracket towards the land until the rear end of land side sets about 1/2" away from the furrow wall when the plow is at work. If you can place your fingers between the land side and furrow wall at point "X", the setting is all right.
Adjust at "H" on the connection rod to set rear wheel to run straight.
Rear wheel should carry the weight at the rear. The land side on the rear bottom should set about 5/8" above the furrow bottom.
Adjust the collar at "E" up or down until the land side sets about the thickness of your fingers (5/8") above the bottom of the furrow.
Line Of Draft On All Plow Bott
Correct Hitch On Riding Plows
We must assume, in discussing the correct hitch in a three-wheel plow, that all adjustments of the plow are correct and the share properly sharpened. If the plow be a new one, erected according to factory instructions and none of the adjustments are changed, you can proceed with the assurance that with a correct hitch, the plow will work as it was intended.
The wheels are attached to a three-wheel plow for the purpose of carrying the entire load, regulating the depth and width of furrow or furrow to be turned. Keep this point firmly in your mind.
The load consists of the weight of the plow, the weight of the operator and the weight of the soil being lifted and turned. All of this weight should be carried on the wheels and non of it carried by the team, on account of improper hitch.
Now, just what is the correct hitch on a three-wheel plow, and what is the result of an incorrect hitch?
The picture on this page is for the purpose of illustrating the true line of draft when a three-wheel plow is pulled by horse-power. This line of draft you will notice is from a point indicating the center of resistance on plow bottom to the point where the tug or trace attaches to the hame at the horse's shoulder. The correct place to hitch, then, would be at a point where this line passes through the vertical part of your plow clevis. The dotted lines show the effect at this point on your vertical clevis of too short a hitch when horses are worked abreast. The natural tendency tendency is to hitch too close to a three-wheel plow.
Understand, then, that if you hitch too close or too low on a three-wheel plow, your team will carry a good portion of the load on their traces rather than allow it to be rolled along on the wheels of the plow. The weight they carry will be taken largely from the front furrow wheel.
By hitching too close or too low, you have not only added this weight on your team but you have taken always the means of controlling the plow, because without proper weight on the front furrow wheel, it will not be possible for you to control accurately the width or depth of furrow.
A good rule to go by on this point is to hitch long enough and high enough so that you have as much weight on the front furrow wheel as you have on the rear furrow wheel. A long hitch is better to accomplish this, rather than a high hitch, as the long hitch affords more room for your horses to walk, making it all the easier on them.
You can test this very nicely after you have opened up your land and your plow is running at the depth you want it to run. Slip off the seat and grab the front furrow wheel and see how much effort it takes for you to slide it. Then so the same thing to the rear furrow wheel. Adjust your hitch until you have as much resistance on the front furrow wheel as you have on the rear wheel furrow.
You will be surprised at the difference it will make to your team when you relieve them of carrying part of the load of the plow and lengthen their traces enough so they simply roll the load along.
If you will follow these simple instructions, you will have no trouble in getting a proper hitch so far as the vertical adjustment of your clevis is concerned. With this part of your hitch right, move your evener clevis sidewise on the cross clevis of the plow, whether it be a sulky or a gang plow, until your team walks comparatively straight. Do not insist on hitching directly in front of the point if the beam, on a single-bottom plow, or between the point of the two beams on a two-bottom plow. If you do and use fairly good-sized horses, they will have to walk sidewise and the traces will chafe their legs. With the first hitch adjustment proper, you will have sufficient weight on the front furrow wheel, so that you can get over far enough on the cross clevis to allow your horses to walk away straight and free.
Do not lay aside the evener recommended by a plow manufacturer who has worked for years and years perfecting such an evener and plow, for any of the new-fanged "patent" eveners that you may find offered for sale today. which often prove very unsatisfactory.
The ideal hitch for a two-bottom gang plow is the five-horse strung-out hitch. Most of us do not take into consideration the real load we are putting on the horses when using only four horses on a gang plow, as compared with three horses on the ordinary 16" sulky plow. Suppose both plows are running six inches deep. The three horses on a 16" sulky plow are each cutting and turning 5-1/3" of the furrow slice, whereas, the four horses on a 14" two-bottom gang plow, cutting and turning a total of 28", are each cutting and turning 7" of soil, or an increase over the sulky plow team of approximately 30 per cent per horse. Figuring the other way, two horses on a 16" sulky plow would each pull only 1/7, or about 14 per cent more than is required of each of the four horses on the gang plow.
STUDY THESE HITCHES CAREFULLY
Notice the different hitches and notice the position of the evener and clevis in each. Many experiments have proved that hitching in the manner shown here results in lighter draft and better work.
One who has never driven horses hitched tandem, or strung out, on a gang plow, may object to the team not being quite so convenient to handle. This objection will soon be overcome if you will just try it out, because your horses will so the work so much easier, and will very soon become accustomed to the strung out manner of being hitched. Then also, it has been the writer's experience that is practically every team of four or five horses, some of them wuill work better in one position in the team than another. After a little practice in shifting the horses around until you get then located so they work in the most contented position, better results will follow. A horse cannot render efficient service when nervous and fretted, any more than human beings can.
Have a real care for your horses; hitch them so they will be the most comfortable at work, and you will be surprised at the additional service they will render you, and it will also improve the operation of your plow.
One of the cuts on the opposite page illustrates the common four-horse-abreast hitch on a two-bottom gang plow. The heavy outlines on this illustration represent four horses hitched to work to the best possible advantage. The dotted outlines represent the same team working to very great disadvantage, both to the horses and to the plow, and I am sorry to say that this is not at all an uncommon condition.
Note the difference where the dotted line crosses the plow clevis and evener, showing clearly the added side draft caused by working the horses with their heads too far apart.
The most favorable four-horse abreast hitch that can possibly be secured creates considerable side draft, because the center of the team is well to the side of the center of the plow. You will note by referring to this cut again, that the horse next to the furrow is almost exactly straight ahead of the center of resistance in the plow, and every inch that the three land horses swing away from the furrow horse, not only increases the side draft, but increases the direct draft as well.
Carrying this to the extreme, let us just imagine that the third horse from the furrow be permitted to swing around far enough to pull straight from the end of the evener, at a right angle to the line of travel of the plow and the furrow horse. This, you can appreciate, would not help to move the plow forward.
Now you may say that especially during the hot summer and fall plowing, and also when the ground is harder and requires more power for plowing, that the horses should have more room, and, consequently, should be permitted to work farther apart. With this we agree most heartily-if you will work the horses tandem, or strung out, they will have all of the room they need, and will be working more nearly in front of the line of draft of the plow; consequently, they will pull it easier.
It is better to plow when too dry then when to wet, and don't delay the work too near seeding time.
When Furrows Do Not Lie Alike
A common complaint is that furrows are not uniform. This applies particularly to gang plows or wheel plows with more than one bottom. This complaint may be due to any one of the following faults: First, frame of plow not level; second, improper rolling Coulter adjustment; third, improper front furrow-wheel adjustment; and fourth, incorrect hitch.
The frame should be parallel with the surface of the field. If the field being plowed has a slope, the gang-plow frame should slope accordingly; otherwise one plow bottom will run deeper than the other and the furrows will not be uniform.
It is very important that both rolling coulters be adjusted an equal distance-outside to "land"-from the shin of the plow. For instance, if you are using a gang plow with two 14-inch bottoms, and the front rolling Coulter is set flush with the shin of the plow, this robs the front plow bottom of from one-half to five-eighths of an inch of its furrow slice. With the rear rolling Coulter set from three-fourths of an inch to one inch to "land, " it adds that much to the rear plow furrow slice. This causes the front plow to turn a 13-1/2-inch furrow slice and the rear plow 15-inch, and as a result the furrows are not uniform.
It is also important that the front furrow wheel be adjusted so that the front plow can freely cut a full-width furrow. If the front furrow wheel is adjusted so that when it is run in the corner of the furrow the front plow cannot cut freely a full-width furrow, whereas the rear plow, owing to the spacing of the beams, must always cut a full-width furrow-here again the furrows will not be uniform. With rolling coulters properly adjusted, measure the furrow slice from the rolling Coulter to the edge of furrow wall. This, on a 14-inch bottom gang plow, should measure 14 inches. Adjust the front wheel "in" or "out" until this measurement is obtained.
And here again comes importance of correct hitch. With the frame level, rolling coulters properly adjusted, and furrow wheel properly adjusted, it is still possible to hitch so low or so far out of line on the clevis of the plow that the front furrow wheel will not run snugly in the corner of the furrow. Lengthen the traces and make adjustments on the cross clevis of the plow until the front furrow wheel runs snugly in the corner of the furrow.
What Causes A Wheel Plow To Upset
Setting on the seat of a good wheel plow in operation if just as safe as sitting on a chair in your home-providing the horses are hitched to the plow correctly. Attention to just a few details will prevent upsets.
The complaint of upsetting is most common on the three-wheel pole plows, although it occurs sometimes on the pole less plows.
When hitching too close and too low on a three-wheel plow, the weight on the front furrow wheel and on the land wheel is lessened to a considerable extent. Instead of the weight being carried on these wheels in equal proportion with the rear wheel, additional weight is thrust upon the rear wheel and a considerable amount of it is carried through the hitch by the team. This, you will readily see, practically suspends the plow between the horses' shoulders through the traces and evener, and the rear wheel.
Now, as the land wheel stands a considerable distance away from the plow, it is practically impossible to upset the plow toward the land or unplowed ground. The furrow wheel stands very close to the beam, the width of furrow between the rim of the wheel and the beam, so it does not require a great amount of effort to upset the plow toward the plowed ground. This usually occurs then turning "gee" with a right-hand plow or on hillsides. The remedy for this condition is to lengthen the hitch or to raise it on the vertical clevis. In all cases, it is better to lengthen the hitch.
on practically all three-wheel plows, when equipped with pole, the pole is attached to the top of the furrow axle almost directly over the furrow wheel. The evener is attached to the point of the beam, or, in case of a gang plow, to the cross clevis, some distance to land from the point to which the pole is attached. In the case of a fourteen-inch gang plow, this distance is considerable.
The neck-yoke is attached to the pole by means of a sliding device, providing from 12 inches to 18 inches of room for the neck-yoke to play on the pole forward or back. In turning "haw" wot the right-hand plow, the neck-yoke will slide forward on the pole, and the traces will slacken so the plow will turn freely, even though the hitch be too short or too low. In turning "gee," however, the effect is exactly opposite. The neck-yoke slides back on the pole to the stop, the plow will upset very easily. Here, again, the remedy is to lengthen the traces. In case of emergency, where traces so not permit of sufficient adjustment, move the stop on the pole backward so the neck-yoke can slip back further on the pole when turning "gee". This will prevent the traces from tightening and pulling the plow over.
In considering the foregoing instructions, it is understood that the plow is correctly assembled and all adjustments properly made; particularly may the share be in good condition. A share badly worn and rounded off like a sled-runner will cause the plow to ride out of the ground and upset easily.
Hitching To Prevent Side Draft
To begin with, side draft, whether it be in a horse-drawn implement or a tractor-drawn implement, is the result of not being able to attach the center of the pulling power to the center of the load or object to be moved. The reason we do not hear about this side draft on wagons, where but two horses are uses, or on drag harrows, cultivators and other implements used in similar operations, is that there is nothing to interfere with the proper hitch of the team or other motive power.
The reason we hear so much about side draft on plows, binders and other pole implements where three horses are used, is due to the inability to hitch the exact center of the motive power to the center of the load. In case of the plow, the furrow and the plowed ground interfere with the proper hitch of the team. In other words the space is limited for one side of the team. This necessitates locating the team to one side of the center. The same is true in the case of the binder. The standing grain limits the amount of room the team may occupy in front of the binder. Where three horses are hitched to a wagon, manure spreader or other implement of this character, the pole being in the center of the implement, prevents locating the team so that the center of the team is directly in front of the load.
Sharpening And Setting Plow Shares
The following suggestions apply only to all-steel plows. They are of no value where chilled shares are used. A number of illustrations, clearly marked and lettered for ready reference, are given.
The share should be watched closely and, when dull, taken to a competent blacksmith for sharpening, setting and hardening. The condition of the share has a direct effect on the operation of the plow. A dull share will not penetrate hard ground. It will not run steady. It will give trouble in difficult scouring soil.
Usually it is better to take the plow to the blacksmith shop so that the share can be properly fitted after it is sharpened.
Heat the point of the share to a low "cherry red, " not too hot, and hammer the top side until the point of sharp. Hammer at a "cherry red" only. Do not work the share at a high heat, as it destroys the quality of the steel. After the point of the share is properly drawn out and sharpened, proceed to heat at one time, only as much of the share as can be hammered while it is red. Draw the entire cutting edge from the under side until it is sharp. The body of the share should not be heated while sharpening, but should be kept as cool as possible so as not to warp the share at the fitting edge.
Should the share become warped at the fitting edge during the sharpening process, correct this by truing it on the plow before hardening. The fitting edge of the share can be trued up at a "black heat" to fit the plow properly.
If possible, have a surface plate perfectly level on which to set the share. In the absence of a surface plate a straight-edge will do.
Refer now to Figure 1. Draw the point of the share down so there is 1/16-inch clearance under the land side at point "A".
Refer now to Figure 2. Shape the cutting edge of the share so there will be from 1/16-inch to 1/8-inch clearance at point "B".
Refer now to Figure 3. Walking plows shares have a wing bearing. With the share fitted to the plow bottoms, a straight-edge placed at the rear of the land side, point "C", and extending to the wing of the share, point "D", should touch back of the edge of the share on different sized plows, as follows:
On the 12-inch plow, the wing of the share should be flat for 3/4-inch; on the 14-inch plow, for 1-1/4 inches; on the 16-inch plow, for 1-1/2 inches; and on the 18-inch plow, for 1-3/4 inches.
Shares for 10-inch walking plows, and narrower than 10-inch, do not have wing bearing.
Understand this measurement applies to the extreme wing of the share. This should run out to the edge of the share at from three to five inches from the wing, according to the size of the plow.
In sharpening, be careful not to turn the share point to the right or to the left.
When fitted to the plow, there should be about 1/4-inch clearance at point "E", Figure 4.
The following measurements apply to setting of steel shares.
Draw the point of the share down until there is 1/8-inch clearance at point "A". The clearance in the throat of the share, at point "B", must be at least 1/8-inch. Shape the share at the wing, WITHOUT WING BEARING. As all wheel plows are carried level by means of wheels, it is not necessary to provide this wing bearing to carry the plow level. Longer service and lighter draft will result in setting wheel plow shares without wing bearing.
With the share properly sharpened, properly set and fitted, it is important to harden it. Unless the share is hardened or tempered its life will be shortened and it will soon become dull again.
Prepare the fire to heat the entire share uniformly to a "cherry red." Great care should be used in getting the heat uniform. Take the share from the fire and dip it into a tub of clean, cold water-put the share into the eater with the cutting edge down and hold the share in this position until it is cooled.
These instructions apply to soft-center steel shares, or what is generally termed hard shares. Tempering crucible-steel shares is a doubtful procedure.
Rolling Coulter's And Jointer's
With the ever-increasing use of tractor plows it becomes more and more necessary to use correctly the proper attachments to insure a good job of plowing. With the good old walking plow a plow-man can follow, and can tramp on the furrow here and give it a pat there to make it lay over properly. He can also pull out a bunch of trash that may accumulate, or shake it loose as he moves along. With the riding plow this becomes more difficult to so, and with the tractor plow it is impossible, since the operator is on the tractor.
The tow attachments most commonly used are the Rolling Coulter and the Jointer. We discuss first the rolling Coulter.
The function of the rolling Coulter in loose ground is to insure a clean furrow and cut trash so it does not accumulate in the throat of the plow. The adjustments necessary to accomplish this work are comparatively few and simple. To cut sod and roots and thereby lighten the plow in breaking, have these things in mind:
First: To insure a clean furrow the Coulter should be set to cut at least one-half inch wider than the cut of the plow, or toward the unplowed land from the shin of the plow. The Coulter in this position will make a clean cut, and the plow following will turn the furrow away from this cut, leaving the furrow wall standing clean.
Second: When plowing loose land, or going what is commonly termed, "stubble plowing," where there is very much trash, the Coulter should not be set deeper than about one and one-half inches. There seams to be more or less of a general idea that the more trash there is to cut, the deeper the Coulter should be set, or, to quote a old saying often heard, "Set her good and deep so that it will cut through all of it." This is wrong.
Third: In breaking, the Coulter should be set deep because here its function is to cut the sod and roots, and it can be run well into the hub of the Coulter when plowing six inches or more deep.
Fourth: The fore and aft location of the rolling Coulter should be with the hub of the Coulter about three inches back from the point of the plow. Experience teaches that this is the best location for average plowing conditions. In extremely loose and trashy soil it is sometimes advisable to move farther forward so the Coulter has the chance to cut against the firm soil before the plow starts to lift and loosen it.
Just remember two things: In loose, trashy land, the Coulter must cut the trash on top of the soil. This requires a shallow adjustment. In sod or breaking, the Coulter must cut the roots beneath the surface of the mound, and this requires a deep adjustment.
Another point bearing on the necessity for shallow adjustment in trash is the fact that the shallower the Coulter is set, the more clearance there is between or below the Coulter stem and yoke and the less danger of clogging.
Now about jointers: The eastern farmer from Indiana and Michigan, through to the Atlantic coast, is thoroughly familiar with the jointer. The western farmer is just beginning to find out what a splendid attachment this is on a plow. The function of the jointer is to cut and turn a small furrow at the extreme land side edge of the big furrow. In loose, trashy land, this puts the trash well away from the furrow edge, covers it up, and insures a perfectly clean job of plowing.. In sod the same thing is accomplished, so there are no ragged edges of the furrow protruding and no grass left near enough to the surface to start growing and interfere with crop raising and cultivation. The Jointer is also a splendid aid in pulverizing the soil. Many farmers claim that a field plowed with the jointer attachment is in a better state of pulverization that the same field plowed without it and harrowed once.
The adjustment of the jointer is very simple. It should be adjusted so the point of the jointer sets approximately over or slightly ahead of the point of the plow, and towards the unplowed land from the shin of the plow from one-half to three and a quarter inches, so that it will cut and lift the small furrow and leave a clean standing furrow wall.
Special Corn Borer Equipment Clean plowing is undoubtedly the most essential means of stopping the European Corn Borer. Clean plowing, of course, is always beneficial, whether you have corn-borer infested fields or not.
Clean plowing consists of covering all trash deeply and completely, leaving the surface of the plowed field absolutely clean and free of trash.
Rolling Coulter: The rolling Coulter is of much importance in clean plowing. The Coulter should be sharp so it will cut down through the surface trash.
Independent Jointer: The independent jointer is ideal equipment, as the jointer can be set at a definite and invariable position, and, being rigidly attached to the beam, it goes through all conditions. Again, it has no effect on the Coulter, allowing the Coulter to do its work of cutting without interference.
Moldboard Extension: The object of a moldboard wing extension is to control the furrow slice after it passes the wing of the moldboard. It helps in securing clean plowing, as it insures close lapping of the furrow slices and thus eliminates openings between the furrow slices.
Trash Wire: A No. 9 wire about 10 feet long, which can be clipped to the Coulter shank, makes a good trash wire for holding down the loose trash. It never clogs, regardless for conditions.
Weed Rod: The addition of a weed rod may sometimes be helpful. It should be clipped to the beam above the shin of the moldboard.
Disk Plow Adjustments Lifting springs are worked into the design of these plows to make then easy to handle. The springs should have the proper tension. If too tight they will cause the land wheel to slide when the plow enters the ground. If the wiping is too loose the land wheel may slide when the plow is being lifted. Adjust accordingly.
An adjustment is provided at point “A” for raising or lowering the rear wheel and axle. The rear wheel should be so adjusted that the rear disk runs level with the wheel. An adjustment is also provided, point “B”, to align the rear wheel. Rear wheel should run straight or with a very slight lead towards the plowed ground.
When plowing in extra hard soil, it is sometimes necessary to add extra weight. Wheel weights can be obtained for the front and rear furrow wheels to provide this additional weight.
When plowing very soft land, the wheels sometimes sink too deeply, making it difficult to control the depth of the plowing. For such conditions extension rims, or wheel flanges, are furnished, and can be used on all three wheels.
As the disk is the cutting and penetrating part of the plow, performing the same function as the share and moldboard of the moldboard plow, it is important that the disks be kept sharp. Dull disks will not penetrate well when the ground is hard, and they will not scour well when the ground is soft and sticky. Sharpen disks by filing or grinding the plate at edge on the back side. A good many blacksmith and machine shops in territories where disk plows are used, are now equipped with a grinding machine for sharpening disks, and if you have one in your locality, I would recommend that you patronize it, rather than try to sharpen the disks yourself.
Disks and scrapers should not be allowed to rust, and when though plowing for the season, should be given a coat of good grease or hard oil.
The scraper on a disk plow is a part of the moldboard, and should be adjusted according to the depth of plowing and conditions of soil. These conditions vary so much that it is difficult to recommend a standard adjustment for disk plow scrapers. Ample adjustment is provided to meet all conditions. Try different settings until you obtain one that gives you the best results.
The directions furnished by the manufacturer of your plow contain valuable information regarding your particular plow. Keep them handy for future reference.
The Horse-Drawn Disk Plow
In a general way, all that has been said about the care and operation of the tractor-drawn disk plow will apply to the horse-drawn implement. With the horse-drawn disk plow we get back to the hitch problem again. As the two-disk horse-drawn plow will probably be used in the majority of cases we will take up, briefly, the four-horse-abreast hitch common to that size of disk plow.
Here the best results are obtained by using the type of evener recommended by the plow manufacturer, attached according to instructions furnished with the plow. In hitching a hour-horse abreast team to the disk plow it is important that the horses be trained or hitched so that they walk with their heads quite close together. Do not allow your team to spread out fan-shaped when pulling. If necessary, use jockey stick to keep the heads in far enough so the horses will walk straight.
Adjustment is provided on the hitch to move the evener sidewise to accommodate larger or smaller teams and still leave the front furrow wheel running at its proper place in the furrow. For average plowing depths, attach the evener on the top side of the hitch plate. If plowing very shallow, place the hammer strap and evener on the underside of the hitch plate. This will be more nearly in the line of draft for shallow plowing.
Just a word to the users of disk plows which have been in service for some time. If you still have the printed directions furnished by the manufacturer of your plow, check over your plow according to these directions; sharpen up the old disks; tighten up all bolts, or replace with new ones where necessary; lubricate all working parts-and the old plow should go out and do good work for you. If you have lost your directions and the plow is not working as it should, and the instructions herein do not cover all of the adjustments on your plow, write the manufacturer of your plow, or have your dealer write for you, and get a set of directions. This will help you to get your plow in the best possible condition.